25m.
Between the Arete and Central Pillar is a barely climbable section of blocks, ribs and flakes with a liberal coating of choss. The route is an adventurous pursuit of protection and solidity. There is just about enough of both to make it worthwhile (maybe). Start about 4 metres right of the left hand corner of the bay. Scramble up to below a small overhang and decide if you fancy the more solid left hand route with no protection (probably HS) or the right hand route with marginal protection. Ascend to a bay with a dead ash tree and work your way steadily upwards searching out the best rock and limited protection until horizontal with the rock catch fence above the main slab. Then head left to the fence and the safety of its big bolts. Abseil from the station below the fence. Half ropes recommended otherwise rope drag can be significant. Would be better bolted.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| wilsers | 17 Mar, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: As the name suggests there is a lot of loose rock. It should get better with more traffic but somehow I suspect it won't be climbed very often unless someone puts some bolts in. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: As the name suggests there is a lot of loose rock. It should get better with more traffic but somehow I suspect it won't be climbed very often unless someone puts some bolts in. |
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Route of Interest
Madiba
Grade: S 3b ***
(Black Rocks (Eastville Park))