Climbs 47
Rocktype Limestone
Faces W
Reach! © gowain
Solid, popular crag with the main focus on cracks and pockets. Mainly easier, single pitch routes.
Take the A494 from Mold towards Ruthin, passing through the village of Llanferres. After passing the Druid pub (approx. 200m) you'll come to a lay-by on the left. Park here and cross over the stile and follow the track (public footpath) towards the bridge over the river. Follow the river upstream until a small tributary stream joins the main river from the left. Follow this, passing two more stiles, and the quarry can be found another 100m further on (5 mins walking).
The crag is situated on sheep grazing land, so the owner has requested that dogs be kept away from the area during the month of April, and on leash at all times. Lighting fires and leaving gates open strictly forbidden.
A single pitch trad climbing venue with easy access. The land is privately owned and has in the past been directly managed by a lease agreeemnt by the BMC. This lease has now expired but there do not seem to any acces issues here. Litter and remains of fires from nightime parties can be an issue - consider taking a bag and doping some litter clearance if visiting!
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