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20m. R of the tufa of Maris Piper is a less defined tufa system that tends to seep until late in the summer. This route enables the upper 3/4 of the route to be accessed if the tufa is wet. Belay either on the hanging slab (2 bolts) or (better but gloomier) in the chasm below.

Step off the hanging slab onto the cobbles and climb straight past the fourth bolt without detouring to the rest out L on Maris Piper. Continue to a slight easing of angle and a reasonable rest to the R of the undercut on Maris Piper. Head up into some intense and tiring climbing up the blank then leaning headwall. Finish with your hand(s) on the top of the crag.

Tom Rainbow.

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tomrainbow 6 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: By the skin of my teeth. Perma dry version for when the bottom tufa is seeping.
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βeta: By the skin of my teeth. Perma dry version for when the bottom tufa is seeping.

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Route of Interest

Fusion Reactor

Grade: 7c ***
(Anstey's Cove)