UKC

17m. Less sustained than other offerings here by dint of it being on the more undulating terrain to the left of the arete of Yukon Gold, this climb still offers up its fair share of exciting positions and interesting moves.

Clip initial bolt from ledge but step down to start (obvious). Best to have your belayer on ledges just above high tide line. Climb easily to the first bulge and make taxing moves through this to an easing of angle. Go up to main roof and head up and R to a massive jug on the headwall which is used for both hands and, eventually, feet. A couple of delicate moves lead to final bolt and lower off.

Tom Rainbow.

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Route of Interest
Woody's Wall

Grade: 7a ***
(Berry Head - The Old Redoubt)

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