Rockfax Description
(Heaven Can Wait) This brilliant route has some great climbing and a sensational finish high on the buttress. A large cam or two will come in useful. Almost as good as Vestpillaren Direct but likely to be a lot quieter.
1) N4+, 50m. As for pitch 1 of Vestpillaren, but move up to a left-trending groove. Follow this to a grassy ledge then move down left to belay at the foot of a wide crack.
2) N6+, 40m. Climb the head-width crack - sustained, big cams helpful - until it curves over and forms a flake. Either climb the arete on the left, or the tough thin crack up and right at grade N7. Belay on the ledges just above.
3) N3+, 30m. Up easy ground to a belay at the foot of a groove.
4) N6-, 40m. Climb the face right of a blank leaning corner and the continuation crack to the right to reach a stance on the left.
5) N5-, 40m. Climb the big leaning corner (part of The Codfather) almost to its end, then head out left to a belay.
6) N6+, 35m. Continue up the nice technical corner to the stance below the 'Slanting Corner' on Vestpillaren Direct.
7) N6+, 45m. Move left into a groove, head up this then move left again. Continue leftwards past a second overlap to a right-leaning groove. Climb this to a stance on the left.
8) N6+, 35m. Climb up and left into a long crack and follow this to a wild stance under the roof that caps the wall.
9) N6+, 25m. Traverse left under overhang, climb the corner, and then move out right under the overhang to a sudden ending.
7a) to 9a) There is variation to the left of the last two pitches that is said to be easier and more logical than the normal finish at around N6-/N6. © Rockfax

P. Fransson, T. Enevold 15/Jun/1997.

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