UKC

385m, 11 pitches.

Rockfax Description
(The Crusade) A fine and bold route up cracks and grooves just left of the nose of the cliff. The final section follows the long corner system. Carry a full rack up to (and including) a large cam. Begin up a pale, right-facing, 20m high groove below and left of the 'Big Roof'.
1) N6, 35m. An excellent pitch. Climb the corner to its top, then move left across a slab to a belay on a grass ledge.
2) N5, 40m. Traverse up and left then follow a prominent right-facing corner to a ledge on the left at its top.
3) N6, 40m. Climb a superb crack. When it ends, climb right to a tiny belay ledge at the bottom of another corner.
4) N5, 30m. Climb up the corner to the left-hand end of Storhylla - the big grass ledge.
5) N6-, 35m. Traverse down and left (poor protection) then move up and left again, entering a right-facing corner from the side. Climb up this to a small ledge and bolt belay.
6) N7, 35m. A hard pitch but with good protection. Start up the shallow corners then step right to reach the first bolt. Climb straight up past two more bolts, then up and right to reach the crack in the overhang above. Head left from the roof via a difficult traverse into a groove. Belay higher in the groove.
7) N6+, 35m. Move slightly left, then climb up the sparsely-protected face for 5m to reach good cracks and grooves which lead to a ledge with loose blocks.
8) N5+, 35m. Traverse left to reach the base of a right-leaning groove. Follow this for 10m up into a short chimney, then continue up the 'Exit Groove' - the prominent final groove.
9) to 11) 100m. Climb the groove, there is some loose rock and grass but if you have got this far it won't stop you. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50

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High n7/7+
Mid n7/7+
Low n7/7+
High n7
Mid n7
Low n7
High n7-/7
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Low n7-/7
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
DNF
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Codfather

Grade: n7 ***
(Presten)

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