UKC

164m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
E2. A great route up the right-hand side of the pillar. Take a rack.
1) 5+, 44m. Start as for Pilar de Finestrat and climb the ramp and grooves to the top of a pinnacle. Move right to belay.
1a) 7a+, 30m. A direct start, though the bolts are well-spaced.
2) 6a, 25m. Climb out right, over a bulge, then up a slab to a groove. Follow the groove to a ledge and bolt belay.
3) 6a+, 45m. Up to a slab then the arete. At the last bolt move right to a ledge (belay?). The slab and wall above lead to a cave.
4) 5+, 18m. The pocketed wall leads up a slab to a ledge.
5) 5+, 25m. A groove in the arete leads to the abseil station. © Rockfax

FA. R.Edwards, S.Perez 1994. Direct Start R.Edwards 1994.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50 , Costa blanca 2022

Feedback

User Date Notes
profonrock 15 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Looks like there has been some confusion about the pitches, but Heike's description is helpful. Update: top of pitch 1 does now have double bolt belay; pitch 2 obvious; pitch 3 is a corner (10m), then slightly left up the slabby arete (15m) up to ledge on R, then straight up the amazing pockets to the cave (15m). Pitches 4 and 5 run logically together, but is a steep pull up left from the cave then move up and right into an upper cave and follow the cracked arete to the top (or going direct over the centre of the first cave looks even better). Good but spaced bolts, plus 2 or 3 bits of trad gear on each pitch.
Show beta
βeta: Looks like there has been some confusion about the pitches, but Heike's description is helpful. Update: top of pitch 1 does now have double bolt belay; pitch 2 obvious; pitch 3 is a corner (10m), then slightly left up the slabby arete (15m) up to ledge on R, then straight up the amazing pockets to the cave (15m). Pitches 4 and 5 run logically together, but is a steep pull up left from the cave then move up and right into an upper cave and follow the cracked arete to the top (or going direct over the centre of the first cave looks even better). Good but spaced bolts, plus 2 or 3 bits of trad gear on each pitch.
Heike 3 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Great route - deserves three stars in my opinion. On the first pitch, there is no fixed belay on top of the pinnacle. There is a double bolt belay five metres lower and to the right. Traverse right before the final bit of the steep corner to gain it. Pitch 3) The old description was much better- up the corner (two bolts) step left, go up the slab (two bolts) step right to a ledge then straight up (thread and bolt). Pitch 4) goes up the left side of the cave - didn't find too many pockets on that pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route - deserves three stars in my opinion. On the first pitch, there is no fixed belay on top of the pinnacle. There is a double bolt belay five metres lower and to the right. Traverse right before the final bit of the steep corner to gain it. Pitch 3) The old description was much better- up the corner (two bolts) step left, go up the slab (two bolts) step right to a ledge then straight up (thread and bolt). Pitch 4) goes up the left side of the cave - didn't find too many pockets on that pitch.

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Via Almendra

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Abdet)

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