Rockfax Description
HVS. An older route, easier than most hereabouts. Scramble up the ramp below and right of the main pillar. Belay at a tree.1) 5, 25m. Climb the slab leftwards to a ledge and bolt belay.2) 4, 20m. Follow ledges out right then back onto a pillar.3) 3, 25m. Follow the ramp left to a bay. Belay bolt on the left.4) 4, 20m. Out left into a groove, up to a pinnacle on the left.5) 5, 20m. Climb the groove on the right. At its top either climb up left or go direct (harder) to a cave.6) 5, 15m. Follow the arete on the right and move left to belay.7) 5+, 30m. Climb up right then move leftwards across a ledge. Climb a crack to an arete and follow this to the abseil station. © Rockfax
FA. M.Pamares, F.Garcia 1984.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| TradRat | 13 Dec, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax topo is wrong for last 2 pitches. Beginning of p7 shown on topo as second half of p6 is in reality blank bolted slab that looks around 6c/7a. Description could be clearer too: 5) 5, 20m. Climb the groove on the right. At its top either climb up left or go direct (harder) to a cave; *belay possible on bolts on the left, no bolted belay on the right side of the cave*. 6) 5, 15m. Follow the arete on the right and move left to belay *on the right side of another cave*. 7) 5+, 30m. Climb up right then move leftwards, *clipping two bolts*. *Make a few hard moves (for the grade; aidable) to the obvious left-trending corner.* Climb *the corner* to an arete and follow this to the abseil station. As for the beginning, I clearly went the wrong way, but I hear there is an arrow etched in the rock. Spanish topos show it to the left of the tree. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Rockfax topo is wrong for last 2 pitches. Beginning of p7 shown on topo as second half of p6 is in reality blank bolted slab that looks around 6c/7a. Description could be clearer too: 5) 5, 20m. Climb the groove on the right. At its top either climb up left or go direct (harder) to a cave; *belay possible on bolts on the left, no bolted belay on the right side of the cave*. 6) 5, 15m. Follow the arete on the right and move left to belay *on the right side of another cave*. 7) 5+, 30m. Climb up right then move leftwards, *clipping two bolts*. *Make a few hard moves (for the grade; aidable) to the obvious left-trending corner.* Climb *the corner* to an arete and follow this to the abseil station. As for the beginning, I clearly went the wrong way, but I hear there is an arrow etched in the rock. Spanish topos show it to the left of the tree. |
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La Muixeranga (P2)
Grade: 5c ***
(Guadalest)