Rockfax Description
This is an excellent little climb that takes the prominent crack/chimney system that splits the face. Those seeking traditional chimney thrutching might be disappointed however as most of the climbing involves delicate bridging on the outside of the crack.
Start just left of a large boulder below the centre of the face.
1) III, 40m. Climb featured rock towards the corner-crack which splits the centre of the face. Keep right of a yellow roof and step right to a stance just above and right of this.
2) IV-, 30m. Climb a crack direct to reach a narrow chimney, and climb this before following a flake out left to a stance.
3) IV-, 30m. Step back right into the crack and climb this direct to reach a gully leading right. Follow this up and right for 10m to a stance.
4) IV, 40m. Follow the gully right for a couple of metres, then climb the wall above diagonally left to re-enter the crack. Climb this to reach a stance at the base of a ramp leading left. (This leads to the ridge and the summit, III, 100m).
5) IV-, 25m. Ignore the ramp and instead keep following the crack right towards the overhanging face. Belay just below a yellow overhang.
6) V-, 10m. Continue to the overhang and pull left through this. (The Original Finish continues direct and right here). Continue up and left to a stance on slabby rock below another roof.
7) IV-, 60m. Traverse left following a ledge then climb a loose crack direct to reach the northwest ridge. Follow this easily right to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the obvious crack as far as the big left slanting break. Go up this to the summit. Descend down the back of the peak. A better start is left of the base of the crack for 50m.


Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel


User Date Notes
Ben_Climber 22 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: First few pitches are a bit chossy. Last few are nice though. Not sure about the 3 stars.....
Show beta
βeta: First few pitches are a bit chossy. Last few are nice though. Not sure about the 3 stars.....

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Punta Col de Varda

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High V
Mid V
Low V
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
East Diedre (Diedro Armani)

Grade: V- ***
(Brenta Group)

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