UKC

1000m. The ridge rises immediately above the Rifugio Elisabetta. Avoid the broken lower section by following a faint path on scree, or early in the season a snow field, and trend up left towards a grassy col below a compact rocky cliff characterised by an obvious corner down the middle. Climb the corner then essentially follow the crest as closely as possible taking occasional detours out left to avoid some of the more difficult gendarmes. Don't stray too far from the crest as the quality of rock quickly becomes appalling. Eventually reach a subsidiary top below the summit where a steep wall can either be abseiled (insitu sling) or down climbed. From the col scramble easily to the summit.

Descend back to the col and carefully pick your way down the NW face towards the Col des Pyramides Calcaires. There are some very big, very loose blocks so take care. Look out for insitu pegs and slings which can be used to abseil which sometimes proves to be a quicker and safer option depending on the state of the rocks. Fro the col early in the season a fast and fun glissade brings you back to the Rifugio in minutes, later in the season follow the path down through the screes back to the hut. It is possible to traverse the Col and join the TMB path to make this a circular route around the Pyramides.

Carr, Morris, Wilson, Wicks, Wilson 06/Aug/1894.

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