Climb the sparsely protected slab in two long pitches (various lines, 2a-4c+) to reach broken ground, then gain the ridge proper after two more pitches (various lines 3a-5b). A further two easy pitches on the ridge (2a) and a short walk leads to a slanted corner crack (5b) on the left. Alternatively take a line on the right at 3a to gain the top of the ridge.
A short walk/scramble leads to the first of a further 4 short pitches, interspersed with walking and easy scrambling. The third of these pitches is a section of steep iron handholds/steps. The pitches go at 5a/5b and can all be avoided on the right, but the ironwork cannot be avoided. One steep 5m downclimb on good holds, along the way, might not be avoidable on the right but is equipped to abseil.
The scrambling and walking continues for some way until one can leave the ridge on the left and continue on a faint path in the forest, passing under the short overhanging routes of the "north face". The path climbs pleasantly with some cairns, bypassing a big hollow, and then becomes a steep and exposed scrambly traverse (still on the left side of the ridge!) with tree roots and some rocks for assistance.
The ridge is steeply gained and the path becomes better and keeps climbing, until at 1135m one can take the descending fork on the right (unmarked but obvious). Continue to a meadow and shortly after picking up a wide track, turn right to take a path down the lowest part of the gully, passing first through a stile (unmarked, not so obvious). Follow the path directly back to the start.
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