UKC

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Ticklists

Climb Tafraout | 100 Classic Climbs , Tafraout and Anti Atlas Mid Grade Multi Pitch

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User Date Notes
ChuckMaurice 6 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Stonker. Traverse on P2 also works using the hand rail for feet. Overall probably VS 5a but I’ve defo done easier HVS. Seconding with a bag didn’t help though : )
βeta?
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βeta: Stonker. Traverse on P2 also works using the hand rail for feet. Overall probably VS 5a but I’ve defo done easier HVS. Seconding with a bag didn’t help though : )
brockers 19 Dec, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: I think the grade confusion might be from a variation of pitch 3 which goes straight across the gap and a short pull into a steep finger crack, from here you can step left below a steep corner crack and a few tricky little pulls lead up to the ledge. I reckon VS 5a as the gear is good but tricky to arrange, but I have done easier HVSs. This is definitely been climbed (we followed chalk) and was the obvious way to go, however, it is definitely lower and further left than the line in both guidebooks.
Show beta
βeta: I think the grade confusion might be from a variation of pitch 3 which goes straight across the gap and a short pull into a steep finger crack, from here you can step left below a steep corner crack and a few tricky little pulls lead up to the ledge. I reckon VS 5a as the gear is good but tricky to arrange, but I have done easier HVSs. This is definitely been climbed (we followed chalk) and was the obvious way to go, however, it is definitely lower and further left than the line in both guidebooks.
C Rettiw 3 Mar, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: A brilliant route. 3 stars and VS 5a is bang on. A couple of short, sharp crux moments that are 5a, but well-protected. p.4 (4b) is also a really nice pitch. Fun climbing, strong line, every pitch is pleasant and three pitches are characterful and memorable. And the views...! Only first and last pitches are shorter than described.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A brilliant route. 3 stars and VS 5a is bang on. A couple of short, sharp crux moments that are 5a, but well-protected. p.4 (4b) is also a really nice pitch. Fun climbing, strong line, every pitch is pleasant and three pitches are characterful and memorable. And the views...! Only first and last pitches are shorter than described.
badgerjockey 1 Jan, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: OAC guide bang on for line and description although pitch lengths a bit overcooked
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: OAC guide bang on for line and description although pitch lengths a bit overcooked

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Guidebooks for Rainbow Buttress

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 9
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Great Ridge of Samazar

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Aylim)

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