UKC

123m, 4 pitches. P1: 33m climb the initial line of Rouster wall but instead of taking a stance in the brown dusty looking niche, step left another couple of meters to belay almost below a narrow chimney on the left.
P2: 30m climb the chimney initially then when it becomes awkward, move on to the left wall to make progress for a few more meters before moving back right to the chimney for more protection, then head up and slightly left to exit in the small gap between small boulders, continue up the wall above, staying away from the dirty / muddy stuff on the left, to belay on a small ledge just below a right trending groove / ramp.
P3: 30m climb the left most part of the right trending groove / ramp passing a spiky bush, head up and left over easy ground to belay against the wall just right of where the wall is slightly undercut at its bottom, below what is an obvious broken crack line that trends slightly right & is about fist sized higher up.
P4: 30m move up directly from the stance following the weakness for several meters, then pull left in to a small shallow groove & move up again to a hold that is a slightly hollow sounding , slightly loose feeling. move right to an awkward sized short crack & pull over it. to below a steep fist crack, a few good moves with good protection to then step right onto a small flat ledge, continue up the wall & groove over some dusty ground to belay at an almost love heart shaped boulder which is propped up by a small boulder.

Christian Rouse & Ross Keeble 30/Oct/2024.

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Route of Interest
Jaffa Flake

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Aguerd Oudad)

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