UKC

Restricted Access

Officially there is no access permitted away from the PROW or bridleways. 

Access to climb Trango Towers/Peppermint Pig areas is sensitive as it lies within the inner perimeter of the power station - climbers are occassionally asked to leave this area by security staff. Access to Rainbow slabs and surrounding areas is only possible from the Llanberis side but access from Nant Peris (Pass side) is striclty not allowed.

This area includes all of the lower part of Dinorwig Slate quarry, including Rainbow slab area, and the levels opposite (Rainbow Walls). The Lower Dinorwic quarries are all on land owned by  First Hydro Company (FHC). FHC have to comply with the Mines and Quarries Act. This means providing a properly maintained barrier to prevent members of the public from falling into the quarries. The company are repairing fencing in the area and employing additional signage to emphasise the dangerous nature of the quarries. There is no formal permission to climb or walk in the quarries away from the public footpaths and if the secutiry staff carrying out routine patrols,  see any members of the public (including climbers) away from the public rights of way they will be asked to leave. Please follow their instructions and do not create conflict if this is the case.  Please respect the environment of the quarries, do not damage any fences, keep dogs under control and take all litter home with you. In order to protect the current sensitive access, climbers have agreed not to climb on any of the levels below the Rainbow level or on the large tower overlooking the power station buildings.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Rainbow Slab Area - Nesting Birds

Peregrines are nesting in the area betwen Colossus Wall and the Main Rainbow Slab area. These are legally protected birds and it's a criminal offence to intentionally or recklessely disturb these  birds at at time. 

A new seasonal restriction applies to all the routes between and including "OM 69 Runner Bean" and "Naked Before the Beast" - this includes the popular  routes "Red and Yellow and pink, etc." and "Pull My Daisy".

Also when walking past to the main Rainbow Slab Area, please do not loiter or hang around beneath these routes. 

The extent of this restriction will be reviewed in late April/early May and may need to be extended. 

20m.

Rockfax Description
More good climbing although it is a little run out, and the bolts are very hard to clip if you are short. Virtually a 6a+ sport route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start 3m right of Bella Lugosi below a triangular niche at 8m. Climb directly up and into the niche. Make a hard move to start up this. Continue up and right on small holds to the lower off.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Slate Sport , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Slate Mastery , Target Routes 2019/2020 , Covid19 Summer Slate Targets , Halal's hot slate extreme progression , Slate Goals , North Wales To Do List

Feedback

User Date Notes
AdJS 20 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Folded nut in the borehole protects the start well.
Show beta
βeta: Folded nut in the borehole protects the start well.
Zhi Yuan 26 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The left anchor bolt is very, very loose, it is sticking out. Probably fine when weighted along with the other bolt.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The left anchor bolt is very, very loose, it is sticking out. Probably fine when weighted along with the other bolt.
RockWest 13 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The lower off bolt on the left is still loose.
Show beta
βeta: The lower off bolt on the left is still loose.
Andy Moles 17 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The left-hand LO (expansion) bolt is very loose at present (June 2019). The resined staple next to it is fine.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The left-hand LO (expansion) bolt is very loose at present (June 2019). The resined staple next to it is fine.

Logged Ascents

455 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Rainbow Slab Area

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 16
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 69
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Zeitgeist

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Carreg Bengam Bach)

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