UKC

Rockfax Description
More sustained climbing on a harder counter line to Colossus. Start just left of Colossus below a slim groove. Climb this past two bolts to a tricky section leading to another bolt. From here trend right to gain a niche in Colossus and move right again to the base of a smooth V-groove. Thrutch up this and then take the stepped groove-line leading up and right to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Llanberis Slate *** Routes

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User Date Notes
Misha 20 Sep Show βeta
βeta: You’d be brave to rely on just the bolts. I used a couple of micros, half offsets 2 and 3 (normal nuts didn’t fit well but there is a more conventional nut or large sling placement just above), a yellow dragonfly (or a silver / purple cam) and gold and red cams. To be fair, most of this wasn’t essential but seemed sensible, particularly a micro above the first bolt. There’s a nut 1 or 2 crack next to the groove after the traverse but I skipped this gear as wasn’t sure the rock would hold a fall - the left hand side of the crack is a creaky flake. The spike at the bottom of that groove is not long for this world (which would make that bit a fair bit harder). I avoided standing on its tip, then tested the tip after moving past it and a shard levered off. Used about 16 draws including a few extenders. Went fine on a single rope. Belay bolts a few metres climber’s left upon topping out.
Show beta
βeta: You’d be brave to rely on just the bolts. I used a couple of micros, half offsets 2 and 3 (normal nuts didn’t fit well but there is a more conventional nut or large sling placement just above), a yellow dragonfly (or a silver / purple cam) and gold and red cams. To be fair, most of this wasn’t essential but seemed sensible, particularly a micro above the first bolt. There’s a nut 1 or 2 crack next to the groove after the traverse but I skipped this gear as wasn’t sure the rock would hold a fall - the left hand side of the crack is a creaky flake. The spike at the bottom of that groove is not long for this world (which would make that bit a fair bit harder). I avoided standing on its tip, then tested the tip after moving past it and a shard levered off. Used about 16 draws including a few extenders. Went fine on a single rope. Belay bolts a few metres climber’s left upon topping out.

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 25
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Expose

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Moelwyn Bach)

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