Rockfax Description
Squeezed in between Jack of Shadows and Big Wall Party, up the front face of the pillar.
1) 6b, 25m. Make a steep pull up onto the overhanging face of the pillar and move up to the first bolt on the left. Head up left on undercuts, past the second bolt, to reach a chimney. Climb this and exit left onto a ledge. Move right past the third bolt and ascend a groove, exiting right onto Big Wall Party at the jugs. Leave Big Wall Party and move back left under the overhang using a finger jug on the lip, small cam on the left. Make your way up the left side of a slim groove - all rather awkward - to the belay.
2) 6b, 18m. From the right end of the ledge, move onto the face cautiously and make a reach for the distant ledge above, this is the Big Wall Party belay. Strenuous climbing leads up the steep overhanging corner-crack above the ledge to the top. © Rockfax
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Grade: E5 6a ***
(Simdde Ddu)