A stunning route that is the entry-level E5 on this slab, but should not be underestimated.
1) 6a, 30m. Start below the tower. Move up and then left to better holds that lead to the break and gear. Delicately mantel up to the bolt. A hard sequence of moves above this eventually leads to a decent three-finger edge. Beyond this every move gets easier as you run it out to where a mantelshelf leads to the second bolt. Blowing it here requires Usain Bolt as a belayer. Move up and left onto the rainbow, then teeter right to jugs. Ascend to the groove past micro wires and micro cams. Belay on the prow on the left.
2) 5b, 12m. Step right and follow the groove to the top, or take the second pitch of Released from Treatment (p.§§§). © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Bouldery start, past the break to clip the first bolt. Then follows a thin sequence, relenting at the mantleshelf, which you won't fluff if you are good enough to get that far! After the 2nd bolt absorbing moves lead up and left to the Rainbow, which you follow before going up to and following the exit groove.
North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, a State of Slate, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Progression, slate E5's, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Wales Ticklist, Slate *** Routes
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