UKC

Restricted Access

Officially there is no access permitted away from the PROW or bridleways. 

Access to climb Trango Towers/Peppermint Pig areas is sensitive as it lies within the inner perimeter of the power station - climbers are occassionally asked to leave this area by security staff. Access to Rainbow slabs and surrounding areas is only possible from the Llanberis side but access from Nant Peris (Pass side) is striclty not allowed.

This area includes all of the lower part of Dinorwig Slate quarry, including Rainbow slab area, and the levels opposite (Rainbow Walls). The Lower Dinorwic quarries are all on land owned by  First Hydro Company (FHC). FHC have to comply with the Mines and Quarries Act. This means providing a properly maintained barrier to prevent members of the public from falling into the quarries. The company are repairing fencing in the area and employing additional signage to emphasise the dangerous nature of the quarries. There is no formal permission to climb or walk in the quarries away from the public footpaths and if the secutiry staff carrying out routine patrols,  see any members of the public (including climbers) away from the public rights of way they will be asked to leave. Please follow their instructions and do not create conflict if this is the case.  Please respect the environment of the quarries, do not damage any fences, keep dogs under control and take all litter home with you. In order to protect the current sensitive access, climbers have agreed not to climb on any of the levels below the Rainbow level or on the large tower overlooking the power station buildings.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Rainbow Slab Area - Nesting Birds

Peregrines are nesting in the area betwen Colossus Wall and the Main Rainbow Slab area. These are legally protected birds and it's a criminal offence to intentionally or recklessely disturb these  birds at at time. 

A new seasonal restriction applies to all the routes between and including "OM 69 Runner Bean" and "Naked Before the Beast" - this includes the popular  routes "Red and Yellow and pink, etc." and "Pull My Daisy".

Also when walking past to the main Rainbow Slab Area, please do not loiter or hang around beneath these routes. 

The extent of this restriction will be reviewed in late April/early May and may need to be extended. 

Rockfax Description
An excellent and memorable route with a run-out section that will put hairs on your chest! Start below a crack and climb edges up and left, then back right, to reach the first gear in the crack. Follow the crack, sometimes on the wall to the left or right, to gain the pipe. Make bold moves to a shot-hole below a tower, then move left to a groove and follow it easily to a belay on a large flat ledge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A classic crack climb of the slate quarries. Climbs the distinct crackline up rainbow slab. Climb with interest to the metal pipe, tie this off then boldly continue up the easier slab above. belay well back.

Ticklists

Dinorwig Essentials , North Wales Rock Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Cracks And Corners To Greatness , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Welsh Slate Trad , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Extreme 2018 , Michelle's crack ticklist , Slate 2018/2019 , UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , May Trip Target List , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , Bold Tradprenticeship , Wales Trip - 2022 , Slab Dreams , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , North Wales To Do List , Slate Goals , Recommended Slate

Feedback

User Date Notes
ChrisLeigh19 15 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: A folded number 8 nut works great in lou of a tricam for the top
Show beta
βeta: A folded number 8 nut works great in lou of a tricam for the top
Astilath 15 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Take a medium tricam for shot hole at top of runout! Would be very welcome on a lead!
Show beta
βeta: Take a medium tricam for shot hole at top of runout! Would be very welcome on a lead!

Logged Ascents

1056 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Rainbow Slab Area

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 168
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 163
Votes cast 158
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Great Corner

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Llech Ddu (Black Slab))

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