One of the finest 'lines' on British rock which is as amazing as it is frightening.
1) 6b, 40m. Start where the rainbow feature peters out. Follow the crack just to its left up for 18m, where a hard step right onto a good hold/ledge gives access to the rainbow itself. Difficult climbing up the initial rib hopefully allows you to get stood on the rainbow. Teeter right to the jugs on Poetry Pink, in what is now an outrageously run-out position. Most people head up and get the gear in the high flake on Poetry Pink, then move back down. Carry on right, with a gripper clipper to reach a bolt, to the belay on the ledges - bolt and flake.
2) 6a, 22m. Head along the now-fading ripple to a bold and tricky clip, then move up and left to the lower of two black grooves. Finish up this and work your way left to the belay. © Rockfax
North Wales Super Route E6's, North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff, Bold Slate routes, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), World Class Britain & Ireland, Llanberis Slate *** Routes
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