UKC

60m.

Rockfax Description
One of the finest 'lines' on British rock which is as amazing as it is frightening.
1) 6b, 40m. Start where the rainbow feature peters out. Follow the crack just to its left up for 18m, where a hard step right onto a good hold/ledge gives access to the rainbow itself. Difficult climbing up the initial rib hopefully allows you to get stood on the rainbow. Teeter right to the jugs on Poetry Pink, in what is now an outrageously run-out position. Most people head up and get the gear in the high flake on Poetry Pink, then move back down. Carry on right, with a gripper clipper to reach a bolt, to the belay on the ledges - bolt and flake.
2) 6a, 22m. Head along the now-fading ripple to a bold and tricky clip, then move up and left to the lower of two black grooves. Finish up this and work your way left to the belay. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Super Route E6's, North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff, Bold Slate routes, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), World Class Britain & Ireland, Llanberis Slate *** Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jim Fowler Aug, 1987 Show βeta
βeta: Rather scary ! Was equally worried about Johnny seconding the traverse.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rather scary ! Was equally worried about Johnny seconding the traverse.

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Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 9
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Pretty Girls Make Graves

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Gravestones/ Hidden Wall/ Yr Ochr Wen/ Twll Tin)
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