One of the finest mountaineering Diffs in the UK, a real gem of a route. Start below a well-worn slabby crack just left of a gully.
1) 28m. Head up the well-used crack to where it is possible to either carry straight on up the crack (HS 4a), or make a move up and right onto a ledge that leads into the gully. Traverse this ledge right to below a groove that leads back up and left to a prominent ledge and belay.
2) 28m. Move leftwards over ledges to reach a rampline below a slab. Follow the rampline left then up to gain an exposed crack/slot. Either climb the slot (or better still, the arete ) to reach a bay and belay.
3) 35m. From the bay, move out right heading towards a ridge-line. Gain the ridge and then follow it as close to the crest as possible. Near the top of the ridge, move off it to the right and climb easy ground to arrive at a terrace/rampline. Belay up on the right at the beginning of an amazing hand-traverse.
4) 10m. Head leftwards along a line of jugs (all very photogenic) to arrive at a ledge and belay.
5) 40m. The steep crack above gains a ledge. Two more walls separated by a ledge reach the top and a belay by a drystone wall. © Rockfax
Bentley Beetham 10/Jun/1950.
Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Heather's Multipitch Climbs, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS, Mountaineering Routes in the Lake District, Borrowdale FRCC Guide 'Top Fives', Nuts of Legends, York University Students path to greatness, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District, Mountain Rock, ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50, Rock Stars Trad Routes
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