113m, 5 pitches. A line up the arete to the left of Raven Crag Buttress. It starts well, but gets rather squeezed out in the upper reaches. The first pitch and a half would make a good alternative start to Raven Crag Buttress at Severe standard.
Start at a short semi-detached pinnacle just left of the arete, 10 metres or so left of the start of Raven Crag Buttress.
1 18m(4a). Climb the pillar and pull round right onto the arete. Go up this to a narrow ledge, then a short wall leads to a scoop and short groove. Belay on a large bilberry ledge.
2 22m (4a). Pull out left and then climb slightly rightwards up the wall above to emerge at the belay at the top of pitch 1 of Raven Crag Buttress. Move left, and climb leftwards up a slab and round the arete, where rather bold climbing leads up a narrowing ramp until it is possible to step onto some dodgy spikes on the left and gain a short dirty chimney and wide bilberry ramp. Follow the bilberry ramp to an a cheval edge at its top and turn back on yourself to climb a short wide slab round on the right to a stance on a ledge on pitch 2 of Raven Crag Buttress.
3 50m (4b). Step down left and make a delicate traverse leftwards across a scoop to a spike. Pull up into the scoop above and emerge onto Raven Crag Buttress. Follow that route for 7 metres up to its belay ledge (possible belay) and leftward-slanting crack system above, then quit it for a slim hanging groove on the left, overlooking the gully. Go leftwards up this until a short chimney containing a large flake is reached. Climb this to the left of the flake, and go up the wall above, stepping out airily leftwards to a block and more bilberries. Avoid the short blank arete above by sidling leftwards round the arete to yet more bilberries. Climb up to, and stand on the protruding block above, and finish up the crack in the wall to its left.
4 23m. Climb the easy rocks above (as for Raven Crag Buttress).

First ascent: (24/07/2006)

SJH Reid, CAJ Reid, SA Baxendale 24/Jul/2006.


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Route of Interest
North-West Climb

Grade: VS 4b ***

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