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Climbs 27
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 222m a.s.l
Faces E

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Wez Hunter on Close to The Edge E4 5C © awsomal

Crag features

A superb and impressive crag with a good selection of Extremes - Totalitarian (E1), Empire (E3), Medlar (E3/4), Blitzkreig (E4), Gates of Delirium (E4), Peels of Laughter (E5), Creation (E5) and Das Kapital (E6).

Das Kapital has been re-equipped with 3 new pegs and 2 new threads. An in situ wire helps to protect the tricky top pitch.

Medlar, now E4, is clean.

Close To The Edge at E3 is a great route; link the first 2 pitches together then lower off.

Empire has a new peg on the top pitch and a new belay after the first. The 1st pitch of Totalitarian will lead to it as the original 1st pitch is overgrown. Lower off is in situ at top of the crag above Empire.

Blitzkreig has been brushed clean and is equipped with a lower off at the top of the crag.

 

Many of the routes on the steep left hand side of the crag stay clean despite little traffic. 

 

Be wary of ticks on the approach and descent and it can get midgey so a head net is wise in the summer.

Anarchist is very vegetated with a copious amount of moss plus heather and other stuff especially in the lower pitches.

Approach notes

Seasonal Restrictions apply from the 1st March to the 30th June due to nesting birds. Park near the Thirlmere Dam, 15 minutes steeply uphill to the crag. Due to lots of large fallen trees in early 2018 the approach time is now greatly increased. Access was very duifficult in early July. The recommended public footpath through the trees was marked as closed and was almost impossible to navigate. The forestry track was also badly blocked in many places. The car park at the dam is designated as closed by United Utilities althopugh the gate was open.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens are nesting on the crag, however Peregirnes have not been seen so the access restriction will therefore lift on 31 May. If you do encounter Peregrines please back off and then let us know.

 

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Guidebooks

Lake District Climbs

Lake District Climbs provides comprehensive coverage of the very best traditional climbing in the mountains and valleys of English Lake District. The range and variety of climbing available is outstanding, from low-level single-pitch outcrop cragging to long multi-pitch mountain routes. There is something here for climbers of all abilities from experts to those just starting out.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lake District Rock (2015)
Eastern Crags (2011)

Out of print:
Scary!
DaveR - 18/Dec/02
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Climbs at this crag

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