UKC

Climbs 27
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 222m a.s.l
Faces E

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Wez Hunter on Close to The Edge E4 5C © awsomal

Crag features

A superb and impressive crag with a good selection of Extremes - Totalitarian (E1), Empire (E3), Medlar (E3/4), Blitzkreig (E4), Gates of Delirium (E4), Peels of Laughter (E5), Creation (E5) and Das Kapital (E6).

Das Kapital has been re-equipped with 3 new pegs and 2 new threads. An in situ wire helps to protect the tricky top pitch.

Medlar, now E4, is clean.

Close To The Edge at E3 is a great route; link the first 2 pitches together then lower off.

Empire has a new peg on the top pitch and a new belay after the first. The 1st pitch of Totalitarian will lead to it as the original 1st pitch is overgrown. Lower off is in situ at top of the crag above Empire.

Blitzkreig has been brushed clean and is equipped with a lower off at the top of the crag.

Many of the routes on the steep left hand side of the crag stay clean despite little traffic. 

Be wary of ticks on the approach and descent and it can get midgey so a head net is wise in the summer.

Anarchist is very vegetated with a copious amount of moss plus heather and other stuff especially in the lower pitches.

Three boulder problems added April 2022 are on the steep face of the very obvious block on the approach (Lorax, Onceler, Humming Fish), and on the downhill face of the furthest uphill of the smaller blocks round the back of it. Boulder is unaffected by seasonal restrictions.

Approach notes

Seasonal Restrictions apply from the 1st March to the 30th June due to nesting birds (subject to change - check BMC RAD). Park near the Thirlmere Dam, 15 minutes uphill to the crag.

As of June 2021, approach back to normal (as described in FRCC guide) following issues with felling in previous years. 

The car park at the dam is currently closed (June 2021) by United Utilities but other parking options nearby. 

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

This crag has historically been used as a nest site for both ravens and peregrines. Currently neither are beleived to be nesting but if you do see either of these birds on or near the crag displaying nesting behaviour please contact access@thebmc.co.uk 

Scary!
DaveR - 18/Dec/02
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Climbs at this crag

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