Rockfax Description
The second pitch is one of the finest at the grade in Langdale. Start at the lowest point of the cliff below a short arete.
1) 10m. Climb the groove just right of the arete until a pull left gains the arete, then a large ledge and tree belay not far above.
2) 4b, 22m. Directly behind the tree is a wide groove feature. Pull up into it and climb to some good gear placements. Make a delicate traverse right for three metres then head up to the base of a corner. Bridge up the corner and move left to finish up an awkward corner/groove in a fine position. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start below a shallow right-facing groove, just above the toe of the crag.
P1: 10m Climb the groove until a move left leads onto the rib. Follow this to a spacious ledge and belayon the small ash or larger oak to the right.
P2: 27m Climb the shallow square-cut groove immediately above the ash tree to two horizontal bands of good pockets at around 6m. Embrace good runners, choose your level and make the crux traverse right across the slab for 3m then up leftwards into a corner. Climb this until a swing left gainsthe overhanging rib. Finish rightwards up the awkward chimney break.
ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , 2020/21 Trips , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , 50 more great HS routes , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Lake District To Do List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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FieldofBen | 3 Sep |
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βeta: The tree at the mid-way belay is loose and should probably not be used as a belay. The whole root system moves when the tree is pushed. A large block also came loose 3 meters up the route when stood on. This was trundled as the second nearly pulled it out with a slight touch. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The tree at the mid-way belay is loose and should probably not be used as a belay. The whole root system moves when the tree is pushed. A large block also came loose 3 meters up the route when stood on. This was trundled as the second nearly pulled it out with a slight touch. |
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paulinepavlova | 12 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: There is a big boulder around 30m back from edge top that you can use as anchor | ||
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βeta: There is a big boulder around 30m back from edge top that you can use as anchor |
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Neil Henson | 15 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Led pitch 2, which proved to be exciting. Great route though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Led pitch 2, which proved to be exciting. Great route though. |
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Grade: HS 4a ***
(Grey Crag (Buttermere))