UKC

Climbs 304
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 227m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Clipping in the Mecca corner. © Jonathan Bean

Crag features

A 'National crucible' of hard sport climbing. A huge bastion of overhanging rock giving short (10m) crimpy desperates and multi-pitch pumps over 50m long. Mostly good rock, a bit flaky in places, and polished in others. Top routes are Sardine (7b+), Indecent Exposure (pitch 1, 7b+), The Body Machine (7c), Chimes of Freedom (8a+), Mecca (8b+), Hubble (8c+) and the hardest route in the Peak, Mutation (9a). Not surprisingly, home of hard bouldering too. Powerband and Ben's Roof to name a few. A suntrap - can be too hot!

Approach notes

From the B6049 Tideswell to Buxton road turn left at Miller's Dale (to Litton Mill). Limited parking is available in small laybys below the crag or at the southern end of Tideswell Dale 8 min walk away.

Restricted Access

The National Trust own the crag and whilst it’s not on open access land with a right of access, the Trust kindly allow public access for climbers, on the condition that we look after the crag. Here are some simple tips to help you enjoy your visit, look after the area and make sure we retain access for the future.

  • Be considerate and aware that we share this quiet dale with other users. Anglers by the river, walkers and local residents all value this place for its peaceful setting so keep a lid on shouting or screaming.
  • Parking is a serious issue here - see the 'parking and approach' section below for detailed advice.
  • Van camping and biving at the crag has increasingly caused friction with locals over the last few years and is now strongly discouraged. It’s very noticeable in the dale and there are places much better suited to this so head elsewhere.
  • Toileting in the area around the crag is also becoming more of a problem and its crucial that climbers minimise their impact to avoid future access problems. Don’t be tempted to use the bushes – use the public toilets at Millers Dale station a very short trip away. If you can’t do that, carry a ‘wag bag’ and pack out all human waste and toilet paper. This special place deserves better than a minefield of human poo around it.
  • Normal practice now is to remove quickdraws at the end of the day and not to leave overnight. Though leaving in-situ draws is common practice on other crags around the world, here, locals have objected.  
  • Keeping the crag and surrounding area litter free is a good way of showing others that climbers care. Take everything home with you including litter you find to dispose of responsibly.
  • Over use of chalk might not look like much to climbers, but it can be an unwelcome intrusion to others. Make sure you clean off tick marks and brush excess chalk off holds at the end of your session.
  • Be vigilant for loose rock. Even on well established lines bits still do drop off, especially higher up on the crag.
  • Some of the routes have high first bolts, a clipstick or a well placed pad may save a twisted ankle (or worse).
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