Climbs 147
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 80m a.s.l
Faces W

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Franco's Wall, just before the rain got me © EBclimbing

Crag features

Good Bouldering on the White and Black walls, along with some higher routes. The Alcove offers climbing up to about 12 metres. A good 'Super highball Venue' only a minute from the road and a mile from Hutton-le-hole..

*BOULDERING STARRING* - Most problems are eliminates, based on a peak limestone style system. The lines are never going to be superb, as the obvious holds are avoided, so instead the stars are offered for quality of moves and holds and sustained nature.

Approach notes

Wander down path. See

No Access Issues

The venue has two contrasting elements to it. There is a pleasant open bay which contains mainly easy to mid grade routes although most seem hard for their grade. It is high enough to require a trad approach with metal stakes and trees providing anchors above. To one side are some slabs with the easiest routes and this provides the normal descent down a line in a corner, an abseil or handrail may be considered prudent. There is also a line of steep wall which provides significantly harder routes and problems. There is much bouldering although some of the higher routes justify a rope. Top outs are suspect in places and the preplacing of slings should be considered for lowering off.

Lovely on a sunny day to relax with a picnic. I wouldn't suggest you come here to do trad leading as protection isn't fantastic, however its very good for top roping and beginners. There are very convenient belay stakes and trees at the top for easy setup ups. If you decide to lead climb here I suggest you bring an extra rope to abseil down with. There are no immediately obvious descents and as the climbs are short you'll be coming down a lot. Very easily accessible, parking is just a grass verge about 1 or 2 mins walk from the main 'Alcove' Crag. I Highly recommend as a guide book.
Robert Whitby - 29/May/18
The Trad climbing here offers nothing special, but is a useful crag for those from the south moors, or perhaps the climber seeking shelter from a windy or rainy blakey ridge. The bouldering on the other hand is nothing short of superb- once one gets one's head around the eliminate climbing style. Some excellent moves at all grades above font 6a and one of my favourite venues. There is endless potential for increasingly hard eliminates and although often sharp, the holds are beautiful. It takes a real local to accurately predict whether the crag is likely to be dry- generally speaking, if it's rained for less than 2 days after a long dry spell, then it will be dry, if it's been on off rain followed by strong winds it will be dry, if it's rained a lot for a long time then it will be wet. Even in a wet state there is often a dry patch to mess about on.
Franco Cookson - 06/Sep/11
good all weather crag. some good easier climbs in the alcove. the best being crystal wall, right uncorquerable, monograptus and stepped arete/mumble beginings. The bouldering eliminates on the black wall are really good and quite steep, ideal for finger strength. There are also a few test peices at aroung E3/E4 and some good choss practice if your that way inclined. Most amusing route has to be 'the gutter' though.........
Sam Marks - 23/Jun/11
Having just spent a sunny afternoon at the crag which is my local crag I've come to the conclusion that this is a great venue for soloing, I'm not so sure I'd bother bringing my rack along with me again next time, couple of pads did us just fine today.
EBclimbing - 12/Aug/09
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