35m, 2 pitches.
The R side of the south face is bounded on the R by a pillar, left of this is a deep groove, further left another groove leading to a V shaped holly tree high up (avoid climbing anywhere near this during nesting time). This route starts on a minor lower tier before tackling the rock between the two above-mentioned grooves. Cams very useful.
1. 10m 4a. Climb up passing right of the L-most oak tree growing out of the cliff to a comfortable ledge and belays.
2. 25m 5a. Climb a bulge past a honeysuckle to a small ledge. A steep wall leads awkwardly to a great block. Standing on this fix a thread runner on the arete overloking the holly and kite nest then climb directly up before moving L to finish.
1. 10m 4a. Climb up passing right of the L-most oak tree growing out of the cliff to a comfortable ledge and belays.
2. 25m 5a. Climb a bulge past a honeysuckle to a small ledge. A steep wall leads awkwardly to a great block. Standing on this fix a thread runner on the arete overloking the holly and kite nest then climb directly up before moving L to finish.
Giles Cornah and Andrew Wielochowski.
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