Climbs 30
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 31m a.s.l
Faces SE

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on crimps © mulletcocktail2000

Crag features

An excellent sport climbing venue for the steel fingered granite technician. Two different walls have been bolted these being the obvious overhanging back wall of the quarry below the descent and the not so obvious steep slab on the south side of the quarry (only one route to date). The rock is generally excellent granite if still a little crumbly under foot in places but this should improve with traffic. Being granite and never that steep the climbing tends to be technical and sustained with the overall quality of the climbing being quite remarkable for quarried rock. Unlike many other bolted quarries to date there has been little need for "additional quarrying" to provide the holds! Both walls face east south east and catch only the morning sun which can be an advantage in summer. The back wall does suffer from a persistent seep but only the start of The King is affected and this can usually be diverted to allow the holds to dry. The most favourable conditions are on fresh breezy aftenoons, it further bucks the  North East trend by ususlly being at its best in southerly winds. It can often be found in good condition in the summer as well as spring and autumn. It serves as a good fall back option when the coastal trad cliffs near by are damp or awash with sea spray.  Even in less than ideal conditions a work out can be had as the climbing tends to be on positive holds. It is also possible to climb on the back wall in light rain or showers. It is currently affected by nesting sea birds, think due to nobody being there throughout lockdown they have made the quarry their home.

Approach notes

From Aberdeen take the A90 to Peterhead. Just after Longhaven village 8 miles before Peterhead, turn right off the A90 onto a track with double locked gates. Park here in a new but very small car park. Follow the track up a slight hill and towards an old cottage and another gate. Keep on the track and follow it down hill where it bends left and leads to an old quarry storage area. Cross the fence at the back (East) of the storage area by an old tractor tyre and pick up a path which leads south east after 200m or so ver left (east) to gain the back of the quarry by a steep grass ramp which leads down to the floor of the quarry. The back wall is obvious on the left of the descent.

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