Climbs 154
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 199m a.s.l
Faces S

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Will on Ni Me Mires © Catherine Speakman

Crag features

La Pancha is situated directly above the town of Redovan. It has plenty of single and multi-pitch routes. The area is close enough to the Alicante/Benidorm area to be a reasonable objective for a day's visit, and although the cliffs have been climbed on here by the locals for over 40 years, visitors have always been rare.

The esoteric local guide (Senderismo y Escalada por la Vega Baja del Segura) covers many more climbs in this intriguing area. There are also plenty of other developed areas that it doesn't cover, especially on the walls to the north of La Pancha.

All the cliffs here get their fair share of sun. The crags listed here make ideal venues on clear winter days but can be a furnace at other times of the year - the cacti growing on many of the cliffs offer a good clue as to the general conditions here! All the cliffs take little seepage and dry rapidly after rain.

Approach notes

The cliffs are to the north of the N340 and the CV900 which are easily reached from the A7 motorway. The Orihuela junction (81) is just over 40km south of Alicante airport. The crag can be clearly seen as you approach but is surprisingly frustrating to get to. The best approach is to get yourself on the road which runs along the western side of Rédovan which is easily reached from a roundabout on the N332. Once on this road try and locate the 'Calle Jacinto Benavente' (9th turn on the right) which dives straight into the town. Follow this roughly straight towards the crag, bearing slightly right at the end and up a steep road which loops around on the edge of the town. This is also the closest point to the crag in the town. From here a clear path leads up the side of the stream bed, past a short wall (with routes) and up to the ledge at the base of the main wall.  The google maps pin for the crag car park is 38.1171772,-0.9064398.  This will take you to the car park, but be wary of new one way road restrictions. They are incorrect in google maps.

No Access Issues

Botris sector (just left of La Pancha) is banned from January 1st to June 30th due to nesting birds.

Great climbing at El Rut. Lots of long 5's and 6a's. Names and grades painted on the rock. No polish. Take a 70m rope.
Paul Robertson - 03/Apr/19
Agree with above - the Pared Negra, Redovan & Callosa sectors should be separate since they have different access descriptions. Having wasted a couple of hours today trying to find Redovan Rut, here are some instructions: From the north take the N340 to Orihuela from the A7, then turn L to Redovan. Just as you approach the town turn L just after a cemetery. Follow the road round to the L, then through the middle of the cemetery. Park either in the large open area on the R or further on on a RH bend. The path to the cliff goes from this bend. It quickly joins a yellow & white flashed PR which leads easily to the base of the cliff in 10-15 mins. GPS 38.12198 -0.91394. From the south (Orihuela direction) the cemetery can be reached by turning L at the first roundabout on the CV900 and following the 'bypass' to the SW of Redovan. This brings you out onto the same road from the N almost at the cemetery. It's a great crag and all the routes have names & grades at the bottom.
Alison Cairns - 22/Nov/14
Redovan- La Pancha has lots more routes than in the new 2013 rockfax. Both single pitch and multi-pitch. There was new more new routing going on the day we were there 01-03-13. The routes almost all have plates at the bottom with pitch names and grades.
brianrunner - 03/Mar/13
A local climber told us that Pared Negro is now open (its down as closed til the end of 2013 in the new rockfax). The closed sign on page 75 of rockfax isn't there now so we climbed on the crag.
brianrunner - 03/Mar/13
Orihuela is in Alicante province not Murcia. The Redovan and Orihuela crags are quite separate climbing areas and lumping them together is confusing and not very helpful.
Pencarth - 04/Jan/12
The National Park where the crags are located is closed 24/25th Dec and 1/2nd Jan. Although the gates are locked and there are closed signs up it's easy enough to get through, the local gentleman we spoke to didn't seem to think there was a problem with entering on foot even though the park was technically closed.
magpie - 03/Jan/09
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