Rockfax Description
The natural line of the slab is bold and has a rather scrappy upper section, though there is also plenty of good climbing. Start at the toe of the buttress on top of a fallen flake. The upper section is foreshortened on the topo - expect some grass/heather/juniper scrambling to the high ledge.
1) N4+, 35m. Climb direct via scoops and grooves to a stance in a shallow corner - old peg and nut belays.
2) N4+, 28m. Keep in the same line to a loose flake, then traverse left to a belay on a big flake at the base of a crack up the right-hand side of a huge flake.
3) N5-, 55m. Climb the crack to its end then continue in the same line to a stance on a big block at the base of 'The Webster Arch' - a large left-trending overlap.
4) N5, 45m. Climb the slab on the right to a stance. Alternatively layback the flake (worth 5+ and watch the rope-work) then move right at its top to a stance.
5) N5-, 40m. Follow flakes and grooves rightwards (some grass) to a stance. Better climbing is had by heading straight up the face to the same stance - poor pro.
6) N4, 45m. Continue in the same line to a stance at a flake (peg).
7) N5, 40m. A friction slab (crux) leads up and slightly right to an overlap. Continue direct to belay on a hollow flake on the left. There is a slightly easier/safer variation to the left.
8) N3, 50m. Easy climbing leads to the ledges above the slab. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The natural line of the slab is bold and has a rather scrappy upper section, though there is also plenty of good climbing. Start at the toe of the buttress on top of a fallen flake. A much more amenable outing than its near neighbour.
1) 4+, 35m. Climb direct via scoops and grooves to a stance in a shallow corner - old bolt and nut belays.
2) 4+, 35m. Keep in the same line to a loose flake then traverse left to a belay at the base of crack up the right-hand side of a huge flake.
3) 5-, 50m. Climb the crack, past an old bolt, to its end then continue in the same line to a stance at the base of The Webster Arch - a large left-trending overlap.
4) 5, 45m. Climb the slab on the right to a stance. Alternately layback the flake (worth 5+ and watch the rope-work) then move right at its top to a stance.
5) 5-, 40m. Follow flakes and grooves (some grass) rightwards to a stance.
6) 4, 45m. Continue in the same line to a small stance at a white flake.
7) 4+, 45m. A friction slab leads to an overlap and above this things ease. Continue to ledges.
8) 3, 50m. Easy climbing leads up a dyke to the ledges above the slab.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50 , Lofoten Mid Grade Routes

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