UKC

Climbs 213
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

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Steve Boote & Vun Lim on Centrefold © Jez Finnan

Crag features

A mixture of rock-types, not dissimilar to that of Gogarth South Stack.
Focus is on single-pitch Extremes with big Gogarth feel, yet without the grip-factor experienced elsewhere on the Gogarth cliffs. A selection of fine easier-grade climbs exist too. Mainly single pitch routes to 50 metres.

Approach notes

Follow A5 across Anglesey, and turn left at the traffic lights at Valley. Follow the road to Four Mile Bridge. Tak ethe first turning left beyond the bridge and follow the narrow road for about 2.5 km and park outside Rhoscolyn Church (SH268757). Take care as to not block the passage of any vehicles. Walk back about 20 metres to a gate on the left of the church and follow a farm track (cars NOT allowed) across a field and between some buildings before a closed gate and slight rise lead to a Coastguard Lookout post. The Lookout crags lie directly behind the building, whilst about 500 metres away on the right, the top of Llawder and the main climbing area are clearly visible.

Declared an SSSI, Rhoscolyn is an area of outstanding geological interest.

No Access Issues

No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag)  have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!

The land above the crag is now designated open access land.

Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid. 

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Climbs at this crag

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Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Dave Rudkin and ianstevens

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