UKC

Restricted Access

No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag)  have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!

The land above the crag is now designated open access land.

Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid. 

There is a nest of guls on Truant, please inspect before committing to the route and avoid disturbance.

There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully. 

30m. The route climbs the wall between “Prisoners Of The Sun” and “Staring At The Sun”.
Start as for “S at the S”. Climb slab to the spiky break. Steep moves above this leads to another horizontal break at half height. (Junction with “S at the S”). A range of good small cams can be placed in the break. The wall above provides an extended crux sequence leading to a pumpy finish on sloping holds. Top out through the obvious gap in the capping roof. No fixed protection. About 7b+ climbing.

Mick Lovatt 14/Jun/2021.

Feedback

User Date Notes
tintinandpip 16 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Bold climbing leads to good gear at the break at one third height, crux brown wall leads to undercuts and a final spicy move to slopers and increasingly better holds. Another cracker.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bold climbing leads to good gear at the break at one third height, crux brown wall leads to undercuts and a final spicy move to slopers and increasingly better holds. Another cracker.

Logged Ascents

6 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Rhoscolyn

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Voting
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
Votes cast 4
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pathological

Grade: E7 6c ***
(Rhoscolyn)

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