390m, 10 pitches. 6b, 4b, 4b, 5c, 5b, 5b, 6a, 6b, 6a+, 5c.
Climbs a wandering and confusing line, with many variations and alternatives of similar grades. This is not a sport climb and has limited fixed gear. Most of what does exist is old and scary. Some of the belays have new ab bolts, and safe escape is possible (from up to just before the three chimneys pitch) by abseiling right down the buttress edge. For the harder sections fixed gear is better, but this is an adventure route and long may it remain so.
Careful with the topo in Riglos Vertical. the 3 chimneys pitch (p6) does not start by traversing R. It did years ago from an old burile belay (still in situ) but the modern belay is on bolts further R at the base of RH chimney. From the belay go straight up the chimney groove for 10 or 12 metres to a thin thread, then traverse R to gain the central 'chimney' which leads to a double spit belay.
A. Rabadá, E. Navarro 18/Oct/1961.
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