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155m, 5 pitches. 6a, 6a, 5c, 6c, 6a.
Tremendous route roughly following the north west buttress of the Pison. Only goes half way up so is sometimes combined with Tangerine Dream. Start a few m L of the small pinnacle. Easy to go wrong on last pitch (if in doubt go R)

F. Gutierrez, F. Caballe et al 01/Jun/1985.

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User Date Notes
Bsteve1981 29 Feb Show βeta
βeta: From the 4th belay it's easy to miss the line and go straight up on the recent route 'Escalador Mediocre...' which is quite a bit harder. Mi padre moves R to less steep rock after 2 or 3 bolts. To access a slightly less wild abseil descent move a few metres R along the ledge to the Tangerine dream abs. You still need to clip a few bolts.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: From the 4th belay it's easy to miss the line and go straight up on the recent route 'Escalador Mediocre...' which is quite a bit harder. Mi padre moves R to less steep rock after 2 or 3 bolts. To access a slightly less wild abseil descent move a few metres R along the ledge to the Tangerine dream abs. You still need to clip a few bolts.
ian bryant 14 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Doesn't really follow the n west arete, it's a face climb and another steep one. Couldn't really fathom the last pitch at 6a. Followed the line in the book but it was more like 6c and didn't lead to the ledge so we abseiled from there, which was proper airy!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Doesn't really follow the n west arete, it's a face climb and another steep one. Couldn't really fathom the last pitch at 6a. Followed the line in the book but it was more like 6c and didn't lead to the ledge so we abseiled from there, which was proper airy!

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Route of Interest

23. Unknown Name

Grade: 6c ***
(Bielsa)