Rockfax Description
The clean-cut corner crack is a VS with attitude. Place gear as high as possible, layback and jam with conviction and try not to pump out before the horizontal break. A 'go for it' approach is a poor idea here. Move right a short distance and belly-flop over the top. A direct exit isn't much harder. © Rockfax
FA. Dick Brown late 1940s.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , 100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , UK Classic Corners , Do you climb Very Severe? , Top 50 Peak Cracks , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , To Goliath's Groove and beyond , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , On Peak Rock , The Gritlist , Proper Cracks UK , Memorable Climbs , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 1 , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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evans859 | 7 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Placed high gear, down climbed, then quickly laybacked to the good breaks. Not very hard for VS, but pumpy and definitely hard if you hang around too long trying to place gear. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Placed high gear, down climbed, then quickly laybacked to the good breaks. Not very hard for VS, but pumpy and definitely hard if you hang around too long trying to place gear. |
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TimTett | 14 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: I would argue this is the hardest VS 4C on grit I\'ve climbed - much harder then Croton Oil (HVS 5a) - but maybe my layback technique is not good or the damp crack affected the difficulty. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I would argue this is the hardest VS 4C on grit I've climbed - much harder then Croton Oil (HVS 5a) - but maybe my layback technique is not good or the damp crack affected the difficulty. |
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Kirill | 6 Apr, 2012 |
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βeta: Finally did it cleanly, finished left. Should be graded HVS 5b in my opinion. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Finally did it cleanly, finished left. Should be graded HVS 5b in my opinion. |
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curly8 | 2 Aug, 2007 |
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βeta: Colossal stuff, I reckon it's feasible (and possibly wise) to pause a few feet into the layback, for another runner - then go for the break! I had to walk to the crag (very pleasant by the river) from Hillsborough, which helped build motivation... A must for the VS leader, and jamming is another option! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Colossal stuff, I reckon it's feasible (and possibly wise) to pause a few feet into the layback, for another runner - then go for the break! I had to walk to the crag (very pleasant by the river) from Hillsborough, which helped build motivation... A must for the VS leader, and jamming is another option! |
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Duz Walker | 15 Mar, 2007 |
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βeta: A compelling line, and technically simple but, up to the break for feet and beyond, pumpy. I also had just done Croton Oil but I thought this a whole grade more difficult to lead. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A compelling line, and technically simple but, up to the break for feet and beyond, pumpy. I also had just done Croton Oil but I thought this a whole grade more difficult to lead. |
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SecretSquirrel | 17 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: Took a short fall, but then found it surprisingly easy when I actually did the moves properly and committed to the layback. Boldest bit was the slap for the top as I was too short to reach it static. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Took a short fall, but then found it surprisingly easy when I actually did the moves properly and committed to the layback. Boldest bit was the slap for the top as I was too short to reach it static. |
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mat_galvin | 6 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: Can see exactly why epics abound here. Excellent laybacks but tricky to finish final part after the break | βeta? | |
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βeta: Can see exactly why epics abound here. Excellent laybacks but tricky to finish final part after the break |
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David Simmonite | 12 Nov, 2004 |
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βeta: Be better with a chockstone hey Simon ;-) It is easier if you jam it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Be better with a chockstone hey Simon ;-) It is easier if you jam it. |
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UKB Shark | 8 Nov, 2004 |
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βeta: A sandbag at VS | βeta? | |
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βeta: A sandbag at VS |
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jackie | 4 May, 2004 |
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βeta: This looks intimidating from the bottom; the crack seems to go on forever. I ran out of steam before the break and fell off... One of my best ever leads | βeta? | |
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βeta: This looks intimidating from the bottom; the crack seems to go on forever. I ran out of steam before the break and fell off... One of my best ever leads |
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Jamie B | 5 May, 2003 |
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βeta: Felt undergraded to me. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Felt undergraded to me. |
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Nick Smith - Climbers | 15 Jun, 2002 |
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βeta: From the top of the crack, an alternative finish out left is also good, and probably the same grade. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: From the top of the crack, an alternative finish out left is also good, and probably the same grade. |
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Grade: VS 4b ***
(Burbage South Edge)