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9m.

Rockfax Description
The clean-cut corner crack is a VS with attitude. With gear placed as high as possible, layback and jam with conviction and try not to pump out before the sanctuary of the horizontal break. A 'go for it' approach is a poor idea here. Move right a short distance and belly-flop over the top. For those who are not pumped senseless a direct exit is not much harder. © Rockfax

FA. Dick Brown late 1940s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, Eastern Grit Jamming, Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, UK Classic Corners, Tick List for 2015/2016, Do you climb Very Severe?, Top 50 Peak Cracks, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, To Goliath's Groove and beyond, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), On Peak Rock, The Gritlist, Rivilin, Proper Cracks UK, Memorable Climbs, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS

Feedback

User Date Notes
TimTett 14 Jul Show βeta
βeta: I would argue this is the hardest VS 4C on grit I've climbed - much harder then Croton Oil (HVS 5a) - but maybe my layback technique is not good or the damp crack affected the difficulty.
βeta?
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βeta: I would argue this is the hardest VS 4C on grit I've climbed - much harder then Croton Oil (HVS 5a) - but maybe my layback technique is not good or the damp crack affected the difficulty.
curly8 2 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Colossal stuff, I reckon it's feasible (and possibly wise) to pause a few feet into the layback, for another runner - then go for the break! I had to walk to the crag (very pleasant by the river) from Hillsborough, which helped build motivation... A must for the VS leader, and jamming is another option!
βeta?
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βeta: Colossal stuff, I reckon it's feasible (and possibly wise) to pause a few feet into the layback, for another runner - then go for the break! I had to walk to the crag (very pleasant by the river) from Hillsborough, which helped build motivation... A must for the VS leader, and jamming is another option!
Duz Walker 15 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: A compelling line, and technically simple but, up to the break for feet and beyond, pumpy. I also had just done Croton Oil but I thought this a whole grade more difficult to lead.
βeta?
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βeta: A compelling line, and technically simple but, up to the break for feet and beyond, pumpy. I also had just done Croton Oil but I thought this a whole grade more difficult to lead.
SecretSquirrel 17 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Took a short fall, but then found it surprisingly easy when I actually did the moves properly and committed to the layback. Boldest bit was the slap for the top as I was too short to reach it static.
βeta?
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βeta: Took a short fall, but then found it surprisingly easy when I actually did the moves properly and committed to the layback. Boldest bit was the slap for the top as I was too short to reach it static.
mat_galvin 6 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Can see exactly why epics abound here. Excellent laybacks but tricky to finish final part after the break
βeta?
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βeta: Can see exactly why epics abound here. Excellent laybacks but tricky to finish final part after the break
David Simmonite 12 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Be better with a chockstone hey Simon ;-) It is easier if you jam it.
βeta?
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βeta: Be better with a chockstone hey Simon ;-) It is easier if you jam it.
UKB Shark 8 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A sandbag at VS
βeta?
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βeta: A sandbag at VS
jackie 4 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: This looks intimidating from the bottom; the crack seems to go on forever. I ran out of steam before the break and fell off... One of my best ever leads
βeta?
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βeta: This looks intimidating from the bottom; the crack seems to go on forever. I ran out of steam before the break and fell off... One of my best ever leads
Jamie B 5 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Felt undergraded to me.
βeta?
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βeta: Felt undergraded to me.
Nick Smith - Climbers 15 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: From the top of the crack, an alternative finish out left is also good, and probably the same grade.
βeta?
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βeta: From the top of the crack, an alternative finish out left is also good, and probably the same grade.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 231
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 215
Votes cast 193
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Byne's Crack

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Burbage South Edge)