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βeta:This was my first HVS - and I didn't find it too hair-raising. The bottom 15 / 20 ft are a bit fluttery - as the landing would be evil if you fell - which I reckon is why it deserves HVS. Above that there's good gear and I'm a real shorty (5'2") and found the top technical but definitely no need to lassoo or use the tree!
Show beta βeta:This was my first HVS - and I didn't find it too hair-raising. The bottom 15 / 20 ft are a bit fluttery - as the landing would be evil if you fell - which I reckon is why it deserves HVS. Above that there's good gear and I'm a real shorty (5'2") and found the top technical but definitely no need to lassoo or use the tree!
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βeta:don't let all the talk about this being a serious route put you off. every break after the second slab has good gear placements, that only leaves about 15 feet of unprotected climbing at the bottom. it's a nice route that's even easier than it looks.
Show beta βeta:don't let all the talk about this being a serious route put you off. every break after the second slab has good gear placements, that only leaves about 15 feet of unprotected climbing at the bottom. it's a nice route that's even easier than it looks.
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βeta:The rock has much more friction than the more popular edges, so the delicate move at the top
(i couldn't reach the top hold)is easy doable without lassoing the tree. i think HVS4c is about right
Show beta βeta:The rock has much more friction than the more popular edges, so the delicate move at the top
(i couldn't reach the top hold)is easy doable without lassoing the tree. i think HVS4c is about right
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βeta:The bottom is a delightfully delicate solo but only 4b, the top is artificial and for short climbers very much the crux (if you cant reach the break there is a technical rockover on a small foothold but you can always take a long sling and lasso the tree for protection!).
Show beta βeta:The bottom is a delightfully delicate solo but only 4b, the top is artificial and for short climbers very much the crux (if you cant reach the break there is a technical rockover on a small foothold but you can always take a long sling and lasso the tree for protection!).
Sadly very eliminate in nature, the top fridge hugging moves on good smears are great though. Tree can conveniently be lassoed with a sling, would have been more like HVS otherwise for sure. Definitely deserves more stars than the chimney to its left.
Sadly very eliminate in nature, the top fridge hugging moves on good smears are great though. Tree can conveniently be lassoed with a sling, would have been more like HVS otherwise for sure. Definitely deserves more stars than the chimney to its left.
I really enjoyed this. It was mega windy so I was a but unsure about attempting it but it was absolutely fine. The book lies however, the top (protected) moves are definately the crux. Lower section is bolf but all very comfortable. I wouldn't say this was HVS or even hard VS
with Tom Swift
I really enjoyed this. It was mega windy so I was a but unsure about attempting it but it was absolutely fine. The book lies however, the top (protected) moves are definately the crux. Lower section is bolf but all very comfortable. I wouldn't say this was HVS or even hard VS
Felt steady at vs. yeah you could take a nasty fall but it's very escapable and the moves are easy to read. Good route though, defo going on the solo circuit.
Felt steady at vs. yeah you could take a nasty fall but it's very escapable and the moves are easy to read. Good route though, defo going on the solo circuit.
Enjoyable. VS in the BMC guide, which I think is fair. Managed to find a runner on the left in the first break to protect the sketchy moves up to the second break.
Enjoyable. VS in the BMC guide, which I think is fair. Managed to find a runner on the left in the first break to protect the sketchy moves up to the second break.
Good rounded holds, plenty of grip and surprisingly straightforward climbing. One piece of gear, just below the gorse bush - though you could probably cram in another piece or two if needs be.
Good rounded holds, plenty of grip and surprisingly straightforward climbing. One piece of gear, just below the gorse bush - though you could probably cram in another piece or two if needs be.
spicy and a bit bold but not as reachy as the BMC guide makes out. Just about worth HVS I reckon, [VS in BMC guide]on account of no runners till halfway up. Good route
with Bart Shaw
spicy and a bit bold but not as reachy as the BMC guide makes out. Just about worth HVS I reckon, [VS in BMC guide]on account of no runners till halfway up. Good route
Yes quite unprotected lower down, but use your feet well and its probably steady 4b max to the gear, thought the crux was leaving the ledge by the holly bush/gear where completely staying on the face feels a little eliminate. Felt much easier, better and more straight forward than Jonathan's Chimney next door. Nice route
Yes quite unprotected lower down, but use your feet well and its probably steady 4b max to the gear, thought the crux was leaving the ledge by the holly bush/gear where completely staying on the face feels a little eliminate. Felt much easier, better and more straight forward than Jonathan's Chimney next door. Nice route
HVS? Really? The guide suggests VS and I have to agree. Fair enough it can be bold for the first half with no protection but the climbing's not particularly taxing. We were laughing at this for having the same grade as Bachelor's Climb (VS going on E2 IMHO) let alone HVS!
with Ian Jenkins
HVS? Really? The guide suggests VS and I have to agree. Fair enough it can be bold for the first half with no protection but the climbing's not particularly taxing. We were laughing at this for having the same grade as Bachelor's Climb (VS going on E2 IMHO) let alone HVS!
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