Rockfax Description
The rib between the chimneys is climbed on rounded holds and is poorly protected where it matters. © Rockfax
FA. Glyn Owen 1955.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, The V.S.+ Ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Tony Kartawick | 26 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Serious. | ||
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βeta: Serious. |
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Iain Thow | 21 Mar, 2007 |
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βeta: Escapable all over the place & good pro in the breaks. A friend seconded this as his 2nd ever route & found it easy. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Escapable all over the place & good pro in the breaks. A friend seconded this as his 2nd ever route & found it easy. |
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alj | 1 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: This was my first HVS - and I didn't find it too hair-raising. The bottom 15 / 20 ft are a bit fluttery - as the landing would be evil if you fell - which I reckon is why it deserves HVS. Above that there's good gear and I'm a real shorty (5'2") and found the top technical but definitely no need to lassoo or use the tree! | βeta? | |
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βeta: This was my first HVS - and I didn't find it too hair-raising. The bottom 15 / 20 ft are a bit fluttery - as the landing would be evil if you fell - which I reckon is why it deserves HVS. Above that there's good gear and I'm a real shorty (5'2") and found the top technical but definitely no need to lassoo or use the tree! |
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leon | 14 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: don't let all the talk about this being a serious route put you off. every break after the second slab has good gear placements, that only leaves about 15 feet of unprotected climbing at the bottom. it's a nice route that's even easier than it looks. | βeta? | |
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βeta: don't let all the talk about this being a serious route put you off. every break after the second slab has good gear placements, that only leaves about 15 feet of unprotected climbing at the bottom. it's a nice route that's even easier than it looks. |
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shaun walby | 20 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: The rock has much more friction than the more popular edges, so the delicate move at the top (i couldn't reach the top hold)is easy doable without lassoing the tree. i think HVS4c is about right | βeta? | |
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βeta: The rock has much more friction than the more popular edges, so the delicate move at the top (i couldn't reach the top hold)is easy doable without lassoing the tree. i think HVS4c is about right |
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Offwidth | 28 Nov, 2004 |
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βeta: The bottom is a delightfully delicate solo but only 4b, the top is artificial and for short climbers very much the crux (if you cant reach the break there is a technical rockover on a small foothold but you can always take a long sling and lasso the tree for protection!). | βeta? | |
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βeta: The bottom is a delightfully delicate solo but only 4b, the top is artificial and for short climbers very much the crux (if you cant reach the break there is a technical rockover on a small foothold but you can always take a long sling and lasso the tree for protection!). |
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Gripped | 17 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: Lovely bottom moves but too easily escapable; soft. My back/fleece brushed gently against the tree (it's tricky avoiding it!) | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lovely bottom moves but too easily escapable; soft. My back/fleece brushed gently against the tree (it's tricky avoiding it!) |
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