UKC

Restricted Access

The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:

  • Approach the crag via its left end using the path which runs between a wall on your left and a stream on your right.
  • Do not approach the main body of the crag directly from the footpath beneath.
  • No felling or cutting of trees without prior permission from the landowner via the BMC. Any approved work of this nature to be carried out by competent individuals only and subject to written risk assessment. 
  • The owner has no objection to the removal of holly, gorse, bramble and ivy. However, in all cases prior consent must still be sought.
  • Please leave no litter, and remove any you find.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.

Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack  people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.

9m.

Rockfax Description
The thin crack has perfect protection and superb finger-jams but still manages to be shockingly hard work considering its length. © Rockfax

FA. Alan Clarke early 1960s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Eastern Grit Jamming , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit E1s , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1

Feedback

User Date Notes
GeorgiePorgie1 27 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Defo mid E1 and defo mid 5b.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Defo mid E1 and defo mid 5b.
ste 20 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: did brush off, party animal and original on the needle then came here and fell off this. ok mostly my fault but still think more E1 than HVS
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: did brush off, party animal and original on the needle then came here and fell off this. ok mostly my fault but still think more E1 than HVS
John H Bull 14 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Felt like solid E1 to me.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Felt like solid E1 to me.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Rivelin Edge

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 138
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 133
Votes cast 121
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Time for Tea Original

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Millstone Edge)

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