UKC

Restricted Access

The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:

  • Approach the crag via its left end using the path which runs between a wall on your left and a stream on your right.
  • Do not approach the main body of the crag directly from the footpath beneath.
  • No felling or cutting of trees without prior permission from the landowner via the BMC. Any approved work of this nature to be carried out by competent individuals only and subject to written risk assessment. 
  • The owner has no objection to the removal of holly, gorse, bramble and ivy. However, in all cases prior consent must still be sought.
  • Please leave no litter, and remove any you find.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.

Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack  people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.

9m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the left wall to the break. Traverse round the arete on jams where a powerful move gains the arete - then sprint. Low in the grade but intense for a moment or two. A good but bold direct start is E3 5c up the unprotected lower arete. © Rockfax

FA. Bill Briggs 1976.

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fiend 15 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Pleasant indeed - packs some good climbing into the finish. Traverse around is surprisingly grunty, from there the contrasting balance moves are, as the man says, airy but not scary.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pleasant indeed - packs some good climbing into the finish. Traverse around is surprisingly grunty, from there the contrasting balance moves are, as the man says, airy but not scary.
Ropeboy 30 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Very pleasant, the traverse onto the face and standing up aren't too bad and the finish feels airy but not scary
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very pleasant, the traverse onto the face and standing up aren't too bad and the finish feels airy but not scary

Logged Ascents

164 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Rivelin Edge

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 27 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 36
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 33
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Erb

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Millstone Edge)

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