UKC

Restricted Access

The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:

  • Approach the crag via its left end using the path which runs between a wall on your left and a stream on your right.
  • Do not approach the main body of the crag directly from the footpath beneath.
  • No felling or cutting of trees without prior permission from the landowner via the BMC. Any approved work of this nature to be carried out by competent individuals only and subject to written risk assessment. 
  • The owner has no objection to the removal of holly, gorse, bramble and ivy. However, in all cases prior consent must still be sought.
  • Please leave no litter, and remove any you find.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.

Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack  people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.

Rockfax Description
From a jug, traverse right using the lip and crimps above, finishing on top. Originally climbed sticking to the lip all the way, which was harder until one of the crimps broke; both are now similar in difficulty. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Peak 200 , South Yorkshire 7As , Bus Punters , Winter Bouldering in the UK - 7's , Hard Grit Classics Only , Local 7's (a/+'s) , PEEEEAAAAKS , Peaks Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Matchpole 12 Feb, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Lower hold has broken but not sure if it’s any harder. I went to the higher crimp.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lower hold has broken but not sure if it’s any harder. I went to the higher crimp.
Joemullett24 12 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: went right hand to the lower broken and just crimped the hell out of the unbroken part.
Show beta
βeta: went right hand to the lower broken and just crimped the hell out of the unbroken part.
Joel 28 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: people have mentioned a lower crimp snapping off? I am 5'5" and I managed this perfectly fine, just need to be good with rockovers and lock offs!
Show beta
βeta: people have mentioned a lower crimp snapping off? I am 5'5" and I managed this perfectly fine, just need to be good with rockovers and lock offs!
Droyd 6 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The nearer of the two crimps above the lip has now broken - definitely a harder move to get to the further (but better) crimp, requiring one or more of a knee pad, lock-off power, and very long arms.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The nearer of the two crimps above the lip has now broken - definitely a harder move to get to the further (but better) crimp, requiring one or more of a knee pad, lock-off power, and very long arms.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Rivelin Edge

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Voting
High f7B+
Mid f7B+
Low f7B+
High f7B
Mid f7B
Low f7B
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 26
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Heart of Darkness

Grade: f7A+ ***
(Nearcliff Wood)

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