300m, 8 pitches.
The new classic on the formation, now that the Northcut Carter has been damaged (1999). 3 pitches of 5.8, 3 run out pitches of 5.6 and another 2 cruiser pitches. Route finding is quite challenging, so I won't add to the confusion by adding my own beta. Refer to other sources.
The route is on the second buttress and aims for and then follows some larger corner features during the first half (5.6, 5.6, 5.8 corner, 5.4 to grassy ledge at mid point). The second half involves considerable face climbing via indistinct features until it reaches a full length pitch of 5.8 crack for the second to last pitch (5.6R, 5.6R, 5.8, 5.8). This crack can be taken to the top, but the recommended finish for the last pitch involves stepping right off the belay several meters along a run out face (5.6R), climbing up, and then stepping left to rejoin the crack at it's top via a large horseshoe shaped crack (depending on how this is done it might feel like 5.6 or stiff 5.8). A good alcove is available from which to belay, several meters before the top of the cliff. The very top of the cliff is lose, so best to avoid belaying from there and potentially dislodging rocks on people.
This route is quite spectacular, although route finding is very challenging due to the indistinct nature of the features on the upper face. Figure out the beta ahead of time, otherwise factor in more time than you otherwise might. Even with all the beta available online, route finding will still consume extra time. You will actually have to do some real homework for this one if you want to avoid route finding slow downs. Typically 6-8 hours is a good target time.
For descent, walk to the end of the first buttress where you will find chains for abseiling into Hallet couloir. Two abseils with with a 60m got us down. Take the couloir back to Emerald Lake. If the couloir is unappealing (loose rocks, poor snow conditions, etc.) you can also descend into the Lake Haiyaha drainage (skiers right), although this variation is longer and involves lots of boulder hopping. The trail in the Lake Haiyaha drainage is on skiers right of the valley, so you will need to traverse the entire width of the drainage from where you come down to find it.
The route is on the second buttress and aims for and then follows some larger corner features during the first half (5.6, 5.6, 5.8 corner, 5.4 to grassy ledge at mid point). The second half involves considerable face climbing via indistinct features until it reaches a full length pitch of 5.8 crack for the second to last pitch (5.6R, 5.6R, 5.8, 5.8). This crack can be taken to the top, but the recommended finish for the last pitch involves stepping right off the belay several meters along a run out face (5.6R), climbing up, and then stepping left to rejoin the crack at it's top via a large horseshoe shaped crack (depending on how this is done it might feel like 5.6 or stiff 5.8). A good alcove is available from which to belay, several meters before the top of the cliff. The very top of the cliff is lose, so best to avoid belaying from there and potentially dislodging rocks on people.
This route is quite spectacular, although route finding is very challenging due to the indistinct nature of the features on the upper face. Figure out the beta ahead of time, otherwise factor in more time than you otherwise might. Even with all the beta available online, route finding will still consume extra time. You will actually have to do some real homework for this one if you want to avoid route finding slow downs. Typically 6-8 hours is a good target time.
For descent, walk to the end of the first buttress where you will find chains for abseiling into Hallet couloir. Two abseils with with a 60m got us down. Take the couloir back to Emerald Lake. If the couloir is unappealing (loose rocks, poor snow conditions, etc.) you can also descend into the Lake Haiyaha drainage (skiers right), although this variation is longer and involves lots of boulder hopping. The trail in the Lake Haiyaha drainage is on skiers right of the valley, so you will need to traverse the entire width of the drainage from where you come down to find it.
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