Altitude 420m a.s.l
Neb Buttress in the evening light © Fidget
Big, popular and well-worn with routes up to 30m long at all grades. More open than the Lower Tier and, except for the left-hand end, usually in condition throughout the year. Many classics to choose from (even multi-pitch) in fine positions! Best routes: Pedestal Route (HVD), Black and Tans (S), Saul's Crack (HVS 5a), The Sloth (HVS 5a), Wombat (E2 5c), Gypfast (E4 5c) and Paralogism (E7 6c).
The area faces southwest receiving the sun from mid-morning. It is often beautiful in late-afternoon sunshine. It catches the wind and dries quickly after rain but offers little shelter from bad weather. Most of the rock is clean although some north-facing sections can be green.Â
The Roaches is situated to the east of the A53 between Buxton and Leek. At busy times, it is necessary to park at Upper Hulme, on the A53, from where the local council provides a bus link to the crag. At less busy times, parking is available on the road below the crag but please park considerately. From here, a well-worn path leads to the two main tiers past the conspicuous Rockhall Cottage (the Whillans Memorial BMC hut).
Please keep to the established footpaths and avoid taking short-cuts across open moorland areas. In particular please approach the ‘Cube’ boulder along the sheep track running due south.
Rockhall Cottage is run as a climbers and walkers hut by the BMC. It can be booked for up to 12 people - further information on the hut and the booking system can be found here.
The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.