Climbs 13
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 328m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Boulder Topo © Aly

Crag features

THE ROADSIDE BOULDER:

The boulder, which is right next to the road, contains a short but steep SE face which contains a variety of eliminate problems from Font 4 upwards. Only really of interest to locals (or those seeking esoterica) as it is short, and often sharp. The rock is a solid schist which provides a range of intense eliminates and link-ups.

Routes are in (approximate) order of difficulty. Check the photograph topo for holds, or drop me a message if you'd like me to email you one.

The boulder is in the grounds of Clunie Cottage so please be polite and don't make a mess.

----- THE HOLDS -----

A - sidepull jug in flake (not big jugs above)

B - small crimp in roof

C - reasonable sloping edge

D - small undercut/sidepull in roof

E - good pinch on arete

F - flake jub

G - triangular jugs

H - sloping dish on slab

I - flat, left-facing sidepull

J - crescent-shaped crimpy sidepull

K - poor rippled crimp on lip

L - rippled sloper on lip

M - tiny sharp sidepull

N - low brushed 'matchbox' edge

O - good hold on lip

P - two-handed jug at far right

Q - crimpy undercut

R - poor pinch

S - poor right-facing crimpy corner beneath sidepull I

----- -----

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ESTATE BOULDERS

Another couple of boulders with some limited problems on the Invercauld Estate. They are found at grid ref. 189 915. From the walker’s carpark at Invercauld/Keiloch (turn off just east of the bridge) follow the track on the right past the sawmill and estate buildings heading into the forest. After a couple of hundred metres a large square boulder can be seen on the left (5-10 mins). This has the potential for lots of easy problems if anyone can be bothered to clean it. 30m behind the large boulder, set into the hillside, is a smaller boulder with an overhung pink groove. This boulder has some steep problems on slightly gritty granite. There are two SDS problems left of the groove, one with a big span to a jug off a bendy flake, and one pulling off flakes and small crimps to top out. The groove is climbed with a SDS and can be exited either to the right (easier) or by pulling back left at the top (needs cleaning). Not really worth seeking out unless you’re bored and in the area.

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Approach notes

The Roadside Boulder is to be found right next to the road, 400m west of the bridge at Invercauld and about 2.5 miles from Braemar

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

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