UKC

Climbs 81
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces S

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Bagged or not? © Fraser

Crag features

An excellent sandstone/conglomerate crag in a sunny south facing position. The majority of the routes are quick to dry. Up to 15m high. Vertical face climbing at the right end and roofs at the left culminating in the spectacular Dirty Harrys Cave.

Dirty Harry's cave can provide a number of complex link ups. These can be found in the link up section of Dirty Harrys Cave.
Golden Fleece and the current “King” of Robs “Let the right one in” have been recorded as good examples of what can be done here.

There is some uncertainty over the rock on "The Pen” area at the moment.

The past year (2020-2021) has finally seen a decent bouldering wall come to fruition at the far left end of the crag. Some serious brushing and cleaning along with raking have yielded a crop of fingery problems with a great landing.

Approach notes

The farmer at the Wemyss farm which is driven through on approach has stated that under no circumstances is camping permitted on his ground after finding human faeces and fire pits surrounding the area used for car parking. Access to the crag is fragile at best, and although the owner of the field with the crag in it has given permission to climbers, the access and parking area are owned by a different farmer who has had consistent issues with people parking in the way and camping while overlooking his house. Please be considerate and if there are no parking spaces please visit another crag. 

Restricted Access

The crag is off limits from September 1st to end of October each year as the farmer keeps deer there and they are very aggresive during the rutting season. PLEASE do not break this ban as access is delicate, go somewhere else instead.

IMPORTANT: Parking is limited and cars must not be parked in the "turning circle"

This is needed for long farm vehicles to negotiate the hairpin and is not a car park.

Anyone ignoring this please don't be surprised if you return to your car and find either damage to your vehicle or a very irate farmer waiting on you.

please see crag photos for further parking info.

The farmer has cleared a parking area 50m along the rough track just opposite the gate you climb over to access the crag. If this area is used in a responsible manner it is possible to fit in 6/7 vehicles if some are parked in front of each other, obviously only do this if you know each other and are leaving at the same time!

A great crag and well bolted, The sandstone is solid but the conglomerate needs careful handling on some of the routes quite hollow in places. A great workout can be had I am throughly satisfied after my first visit. Cheers to Ken and Neil and anyone else invloved in the development of the place.
Sandy Simpson - 22/Aug/09
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Climbs at this crag

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