UKC

Climbs 38
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 724m a.s.l
Faces S

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Roc à Steph © Rockfax

Crag features

Tucked between the major eminences of Roche Ronde and Calamès lurks the Roc á Steph, part of which can be seen poking above the trees if you know where to look. A minor crag developed in the 90s, Roc á Steph's oak forest setting makes for a different atmosphere to Calamès and can provide some much-needed shade on hot days. Everything from low 5s to high 7s is on offer; the easier routes are generally too dirty to be of much interest, but from 6a upwards, there is plenty to go at. The wall climbs in the 6s and low 7s on Sector Swany will be of particular interest on hot days being some of the first in the Bédeilhac area to lose the sun.

The cliffs face south or southeast and receive sun for most of the day. Trees offer some shade in the summer, so they are a reasonable choice on hotter days. The cliffs tend to be dirty early in the season, but clean up once they have seen a bit of traffic.

Approach notes

From Tarasscoun-sur-Ariège, head west on the D616 through Surba and on to Bédeilhac. Here you will find an extensive parking area just above the village. From the parking, follow the approach up through the village as for Calamès. Turn right just after Base Calamès and follow the path to the first bolted routes at Sector Abracadaplat. A signed path drops down left along a narrow track (overgrown in summer) which descends for about 5 minutes, then rises again for about the same distance. As the rocks appear through the trees on the right a narrow path branches up right (red paint spots) and zigzags up to the base of the wall.

the French online tope and information page mentions a 20 min walk in.... well done if you make it in that time, aim for 45mins. 20 mins on the way down is possible though.
Rob Hirst - 27/Aug/13
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