At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving.
Please proceed with caution though. More details.
Altitude 656m a.s.l
The Roc des Abeilles is an impressive, yellow-and-grey limestone fin with some leaning trad-style cracks (although they are bolted) and undulating, dimpled walls offering grades from 5+ to 8b. The geological forces involved in upending the cliff (and the whole of the Plantaurel ridge) are worth pondering on. The crag sees few visitors, mainly because the grade spread is a bit on the tough side.
At an altitude of 600m and south-facing, the crag is best avoided in the hotter months. Routes are up to 22m in length. The crag is very sheltered and suffers a little from seepage, mainly in the major crack systems.
From Foix, take the D1 towards Lavelanet. After around 15km, take a left towards the hameau (hamlet) of Garrigue. The road winds steeply up through the village and shortly after leaving the buildings take a sharp turn to the left, a right fork here runs towards some large agricultural buildings. The gravel track then leads to parking for about 4 cars on a right-hand bend after around 250m.
Locate the narrow path on the outside of the bend and zigzag up through woods on a slightly overgrown track to reach the limestone ridge. Follow pink splodges and cairns leftwards, initially through the trees, and then along the exposed rocky ridge. A scrambly section (easiest just to the left of the crest) leads to a short scramble down to a flat rock ledge (do not descend too early - if in doubt follow the pink spots). 12m along the ledge, the path jigs right (pink arrow) to enter a channel. Descend this to find an impressive leaning fin of yellow-and-grey rock punctuated with cracks. Loop round left to reach the base of the wall.
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