UKC

Climbs 28
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 649m a.s.l
Faces S

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Marcello greenpointing the crux of Ursus. Hard jams on steep overhang! © Manuel Bissaca

Crag features

Sunny crag of high quality gneiss, with climbs up to 4 pitches. The main area was originally an alpine training area, so all the routes were originally climbed with traditional gear. Around 2004 the main area was fully bolted, but the crackline features remain perfectly protectable. The 'area trad' to the left remains unbolted, with 11 single pitch routes. The the rock is not of such good quality but it is still more then enjoyable (especially in the area of the "diedri").
Gets very hot in the summer, so good for a cloudy day, although the mountain wind keeps the top cool.
Descent is generally by abseil (double 60m ropes).

Approach notes

Park in Borgone Susa (or take the train to there). Follow via Florio across the railway uphill then take a right onto Via Chiantusello. After a set of hairpin bends park by a barrier (3 parking spaces marked) and walk up the lane directly uphill, then the marked trail to the crag. 20 mins.

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Climbs at this crag

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