130m, 4 pitches.
S2+ 6c (6a+ obb., mixed sport/trad climb, single rack up to #3)
Runout, bolted and de-bolted at various points in time. Trad gear essential to fill the gaps between bolts. Name at the base in a short dihedral near the spur of the tower on a ledge.
P1. A first dihedral, then a second one on the left. Anchor above a technical step on the right (6a+)
P2. Initial traversing easy crack (a few brambles), cross the line of "Il Padre Degli Imbecilli...", then up following the bolts. Anchor on a small ledge on the right (6c).
P3. Following flakes and small dihedral slightly on the left. Anchor on the right (6a)
P4. Traversing pitch to the left. This pitch has been modified with respect to the orginal one, which climb a dihedral above the anchor and then traverse following a thin crack. By the way it is possible to follow it to climb totally clean this pitch (5c, R2 in case) (5c+).
P5. Directly up into the slightly overhanging dihedral/flake. Then follow on the right a dihedrals' system up to the anchor on summit slab (pay attention to rope drag!) (6a+).
From here an easy step give access to the top ledge with good trees to belay.
Descent: suggested by walk (in case you want to abseil, don't exit from the anchor on the slab).
A variant is possible for the top out. From the anchor at the beginning of P4, climb a nice dihedral above (as for the historical line), then directly follow a bolted line on the rounded edge of the tower with very hard moves (grade unknown).
Runout, bolted and de-bolted at various points in time. Trad gear essential to fill the gaps between bolts. Name at the base in a short dihedral near the spur of the tower on a ledge.
P1. A first dihedral, then a second one on the left. Anchor above a technical step on the right (6a+)
P2. Initial traversing easy crack (a few brambles), cross the line of "Il Padre Degli Imbecilli...", then up following the bolts. Anchor on a small ledge on the right (6c).
P3. Following flakes and small dihedral slightly on the left. Anchor on the right (6a)
P4. Traversing pitch to the left. This pitch has been modified with respect to the orginal one, which climb a dihedral above the anchor and then traverse following a thin crack. By the way it is possible to follow it to climb totally clean this pitch (5c, R2 in case) (5c+).
P5. Directly up into the slightly overhanging dihedral/flake. Then follow on the right a dihedrals' system up to the anchor on summit slab (pay attention to rope drag!) (6a+).
From here an easy step give access to the top ledge with good trees to belay.
Descent: suggested by walk (in case you want to abseil, don't exit from the anchor on the slab).
A variant is possible for the top out. From the anchor at the beginning of P4, climb a nice dihedral above (as for the historical line), then directly follow a bolted line on the rounded edge of the tower with very hard moves (grade unknown).
Gian Carlo Grassi e Gian Piero Motti 1966.
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Route of Interest
Osteria Del Viandante
Grade: 6c ***
(Rocca Sbarua)