Climbs 83
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 196m a.s.l
Roche Rock, Cornwall. © John Newbiggin
Crag features
Unique rock - not granite but schorl, composed of quartz and tourmaline, and possessing the most extraordinary friction.
A good selection of routes across the mid-grades from diffs up to a desperate E4 6b roof crack.
Use of any man made structure as a belay is strictly forbidden and entirely unnecessary since alternative options exist, particularly in the vicinity of Shorty's Folly, where a green Camelot, small wire and a thread at the top of East Chimney can be found with ease.
Similarly, climbing on the monastery walls is strictly forbidden, but the signs indicating a complete climbing ban on the approach path are old, out of date and climbing is very much allowed.
Approach notes
Locals say adders are a big problem here but I didn't see any in two full days last week (Aug 2012)
Sports/Social club car park is huge and was empty for the two days I used it. Checked with a local/neighbour who said it was absolutely no problem to park there.
Access was from the back of the car park, past the Sports/social club building, go right, through the gate and then follow the hedgerow around to the left. Cut through the obvious opening and head towards the rock. Fight through the ferns on the relatively obvious but muddy paths.
In bad weather at least one side of the rock seemed to remain a little sheltered.
Restricted Access
There are old signs on the approach paths indicating that climbing is not allowed. However the crag is on CRoW designated land and as such climbing is a legally permitted activity. However, climbers must not climb on, or belay from, the walls of the ruined chapel - this is a Grade I listed building and Scheduled Ancient Monument, and any damage to it would be a criminal offence. Roche Rock is a SSSI for its unique geology and so damage to or removal of rock is not permitted - no fixed gear should be placed here.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
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These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
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