UKC

Climbs 76
Rocktype Granite

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Roche Rock, Cornwall. © John Newbiggin

Crag features

Unique rock - not granite but schorl, composed of quartz and tourmaline, and possessing the most extraordinary friction.

A good selection of routes across the mid-grades from diffs up to a desperate E4 6b roof crack.

Some of the belays need to be taken back to the ruin on top of the rock.

Climbing on the monastery walls is strictly forbidden, but the signs indicating a complete climbing ban on the approach path are old, out of date and climbing is very much allowed.

Approach notes

Locals say adders are a big problem here but I didn't see any in two full days last week (Aug 2012)

Sports/Social club car park is huge and was empty for the two days I used it. Checked with a local/neighbour who said it was absolutely no problem to park there.

Access was from the back of the car park, past the Sports/social club building, go right, through the gate and then follow the hedgerow around to the left. Cut through the obvious opening and head towards the rock. Fight through the ferns on the relatively obvious but muddy paths.

In bad weather at least one side of the rock seemed to remain a little sheltered.

Restricted Access

Climbing on the monastery walls is strictly forbidden and there are old signs on approach indicating no climbing.

Lots of glass around the crag and on parts of beginner slab. tried to clean up the most of it this week however I doubt it will stay that way for long.
K_Maywood - 12/Jun/15
Birds nesting on porky's, maybe best avoid for awhile (jun/15)
Tommy Gunn - 31/May/15
Spent an evening there in May 2015. Superb location with the amazing monastery on top, one of the coolest little outcrops I've ever been to. Seems our opinion was shared by the 50+ local kids for whom it forms a meeting, drinking and flirting spot of choice. Being all aged 15 or less they weren't particularly troublesome however.
67hours - 25/May/15
The signs has not been relevant since 2005 after CRoW Act.
NathanTurnock29 - 20/Mar/14
Climbed on Thursday (Aug 22nd) and still trying to get my head round this place, it's immense. The climbings good, but the setting is even more breathtaking. Didn't spend nearly as long as I wanted there (visited with a group from work on an 'adventure training' package) but loved every minute while I was there. We parked in the pub car park (with prior arrangement) and it was only a 5 minute walk in. We were also one of only 2 groups there, and the other group was only 2 kids and their dad, so pretty quiet too.
NobbyClark - 24/Aug/13
Agree with Argyle-dude's comments, except that the layby wasn't described properly in the Rockfax guide and people just park on the crag side of the parking restriction, close against the wall by the stile. Parking is always tolerate here and is quite safe.
Tom Last - 30/Jul/12
Layby listed in guide book is no longer there and locals on the newish housing estate are getting fed up with climbers parking there. The sports/social club (straight on at the roundabout out of roche) seem happy for climbers to park there and have a large car park. However, I dont recomend the path from the car park to the crag, cut across the cricket field back to the road to where the layby was and take that footpath!
argyle_dude - 29/Jul/12
Just solo all the climbs up to severe, Then lead then rest :D God Forbid Best done With an onsight attempt.. gear good ;)
bunn.aroundthebloc - 02/Dec/08
Went there over Easter - according to a big sign there, climbing on the rock is now banned.. Anyone know about this?
RichG1 - 26/Mar/08
Bizarre pinnacles and a main crag with a ruined hermitage on the top. Some good lower-grade routes, a few extremes and limited bouldering in the bracken. Climbing in the vicinity of the ruin is not allowed. Close to village and popular with local youths.
Gus Horsley - 07/Mar/06
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