Climbs 17
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 1m a.s.l
Faces E
St. Mary's Lighthouse from Rocky Island. © J D Bird
Crag features
A nice afternoon's worth of bouldering in fantastic coastal surroundings. Problems spread our around Rocky Island, Seaton Sluice, with the two main areas being the headland by the Watch House and by the Beacon.
Landings are varying in quality, with many being tidal shelf or rocky, so it is a good idea to bring several pads! Spotting is recommended.
Some boulders are submerged at high tide, so always wait until dry as to not damage the rock.
The Cut feels distinct from the rest of the crag. The main wall here is >5m tall and most of the problems require that you jump off at the high break. Some brushing and optimism will be required if you wish to have a good time. As are wellies and a few mats.
The upper break is full of pigeons in spring/summer, so the venue is a good autumn / winter bouldering option.
Climbs are generally thin and on good rock once established above the lower break (crumbly).
Topping out would be HXS. Some harder lines, traverses and variations are still to be done.
Approach notes
Parking: opposite the Social Club or at Fountain Head Car Park (both free).
Approach: walk to the kings arms then:
- for Watch House Boulders cross the footbridge and turn right towards the sea. Follow the path to the end of the headland and down to the boulders.
- for the Beacon boulders, continue on the south side of the cut past the Kings Arms and the local art cabin. Take a small path down into the cut and walk to the end of the headland.o
- For The Cut, take the steps across from the pub, and scamper down any of the rusty fishing ladders (take care). Wellies are necessary to access the main wall. Can be less tidal than other areas at Seaton Sluice.
No Access Issues
Access is tidal - always check the tide times before climbing!
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer J D Bird